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The truck came from GM with an Electronic Ignition setup or High Energy Ignition (HEI) and it was pretty new stuff at the time
this Elky was built. This was much better than the old points style Ignition. It provided a hotter spark allowing a larger gap in the
plugs which, brought about longer plug life and better fuel economy. It was also more accurate and didn't misfire or burn like a
set of points. For the time it was a good way of doing business just like points had been. Now however, things have changed in
the electronics world.
I had some doubts about the ignition and most was in the fact that it was 30 years old, best I could figure. I decided to rebuild
the Distributor and upgrade to a Capacitive Discharge type Ignition System. MSD was the one I decided to use. I also wanted
to take advantage of the additional energy and controls that a separate controller and higher grade coil would offer. I purchased
the MSD 8400 HEI Upgrade Kit. It came with everything I needed to do the upgrade. I also purchased a new Magnetic
Pickup and counterweight bushings and I knew that upgrading the engine and the things I was doing this time around would
require me to re-curve the ignition for the new power plant, transmission and gears. So, a new set of springs for the
counterweights would also be necessary, an assortment in fact.
After getting in the parts I took apart the distributor and inspected the pieces. Basically, it boiled down to the counter weights
were not functioning due to the bushings being completely shot, the springs well, they weren't a factor because the counter
weights didn't work, it wouldn't matter how good they were. But in all they looked like they wouldn't allow the ignition to do it's
thing, had things been different. The Magnetic Pickup had started oozing out some corrosion and other junk into the distributor
base. The Brass Bushings inside the housing had been all scored up because of a oil deprivation once in its lifetime. So it was
long past time to do some work on this assembly.
this Elky was built. This was much better than the old points style Ignition. It provided a hotter spark allowing a larger gap in the
plugs which, brought about longer plug life and better fuel economy. It was also more accurate and didn't misfire or burn like a
set of points. For the time it was a good way of doing business just like points had been. Now however, things have changed in
the electronics world.
I had some doubts about the ignition and most was in the fact that it was 30 years old, best I could figure. I decided to rebuild
the Distributor and upgrade to a Capacitive Discharge type Ignition System. MSD was the one I decided to use. I also wanted
to take advantage of the additional energy and controls that a separate controller and higher grade coil would offer. I purchased
the MSD 8400 HEI Upgrade Kit. It came with everything I needed to do the upgrade. I also purchased a new Magnetic
Pickup and counterweight bushings and I knew that upgrading the engine and the things I was doing this time around would
require me to re-curve the ignition for the new power plant, transmission and gears. So, a new set of springs for the
counterweights would also be necessary, an assortment in fact.
After getting in the parts I took apart the distributor and inspected the pieces. Basically, it boiled down to the counter weights
were not functioning due to the bushings being completely shot, the springs well, they weren't a factor because the counter
weights didn't work, it wouldn't matter how good they were. But in all they looked like they wouldn't allow the ignition to do it's
thing, had things been different. The Magnetic Pickup had started oozing out some corrosion and other junk into the distributor
base. The Brass Bushings inside the housing had been all scored up because of a oil deprivation once in its lifetime. So it was
long past time to do some work on this assembly.
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After I rebuilt the distributor shaft bushings and replaced the magnetic pickup, I reassembled it with the MSD parts that came in
the kit. The Electronic Module in the distributor was deleted, the kit came with a set of wires to connect to the magnetic pickup
where the electronic module would have been and then add some wire tie downs and that is that, the conversion was done! It's
actually more like gutting the thing. For the MSD Ignition the large Electronic Controller/Module is mounted outside and does a
good deal more than the GM one did. MSD Suggested upgrading my CAP to something more performance oriented as well as
adding "ONLY" Spiral Core wires to the ignition. As far as the old Coil MSD removed that from the cap also and in it's place
they added this cover that has a long contact that spans the, now empty, space to the newly provided contact for the rotor. All
the old HEI wiring is removed as well, since there is no coil any longer no need have electrical contacts. The cover came with a
place (Coil Tower) to connect a coil wire only.
The old wiring is routed to the controller box which is hooked up directly via fused link to the battery hot and ground. This has
some advantages and the kit comes with all the necessary wires and connectors to make this all happen. The only problems I had
with the kit was trying to determine where that big Controller Box would mount and where the external Coil would mount. In the
engine compartment of my 76 there is very limited space even after removing most of the old vacuum hoses and other unessential
devices. From the outside one would guess that there is a lot more room under that big ol' hood. But it is very limited as to where
and size. I ended up mounting the Controller Box on the passenger side fender well and the coil I ended up making some space
for on the fire wall. Had the engine not been out then I would have had to mount it some where else. I had room but I didn't have
room to make the necessary holes to fasten it down with the engine in the truck. Later, if and when I tear it apart for some other
reason I'll try to do something better. Hind Sight is 20/20! But it all works fine without a glitch and it gives up better response than
the old ignition and all of it functions as it is suppose to.
The only other major glitch well, minor actually but major to me was that this ignition system didn't like my old Tachometer. It
wouldn't operate the tach without a pretty expensive add on or I could have gotten a New Tack that was more compatible with
the MSD Ignition. However, I had actually looked a while before I found this tachometer. The way it mounts and its size allows
me to use it. Sometime down the street I'll completely redo the dash board and that will make it necessary to buy new gauges. I'll
get a compatible gauge but until then I had to spend almost $60.00 for a device that filters the signals so that older gauges work.
the kit. The Electronic Module in the distributor was deleted, the kit came with a set of wires to connect to the magnetic pickup
where the electronic module would have been and then add some wire tie downs and that is that, the conversion was done! It's
actually more like gutting the thing. For the MSD Ignition the large Electronic Controller/Module is mounted outside and does a
good deal more than the GM one did. MSD Suggested upgrading my CAP to something more performance oriented as well as
adding "ONLY" Spiral Core wires to the ignition. As far as the old Coil MSD removed that from the cap also and in it's place
they added this cover that has a long contact that spans the, now empty, space to the newly provided contact for the rotor. All
the old HEI wiring is removed as well, since there is no coil any longer no need have electrical contacts. The cover came with a
place (Coil Tower) to connect a coil wire only.
The old wiring is routed to the controller box which is hooked up directly via fused link to the battery hot and ground. This has
some advantages and the kit comes with all the necessary wires and connectors to make this all happen. The only problems I had
with the kit was trying to determine where that big Controller Box would mount and where the external Coil would mount. In the
engine compartment of my 76 there is very limited space even after removing most of the old vacuum hoses and other unessential
devices. From the outside one would guess that there is a lot more room under that big ol' hood. But it is very limited as to where
and size. I ended up mounting the Controller Box on the passenger side fender well and the coil I ended up making some space
for on the fire wall. Had the engine not been out then I would have had to mount it some where else. I had room but I didn't have
room to make the necessary holes to fasten it down with the engine in the truck. Later, if and when I tear it apart for some other
reason I'll try to do something better. Hind Sight is 20/20! But it all works fine without a glitch and it gives up better response than
the old ignition and all of it functions as it is suppose to.
The only other major glitch well, minor actually but major to me was that this ignition system didn't like my old Tachometer. It
wouldn't operate the tach without a pretty expensive add on or I could have gotten a New Tack that was more compatible with
the MSD Ignition. However, I had actually looked a while before I found this tachometer. The way it mounts and its size allows
me to use it. Sometime down the street I'll completely redo the dash board and that will make it necessary to buy new gauges. I'll
get a compatible gauge but until then I had to spend almost $60.00 for a device that filters the signals so that older gauges work.
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The wiring in this Elky has been chopped on throughout the years. Much of the wiring in around the rear lights and under the dash has been cut into and
splices possibly someone added a trailer wiring connection to the truck once sometime ago, who knows! But for now, there are only some minor issues that
really bug me about the truck. I can let this little baby sit for two weeks and the battery will completely discharge. This probably wouldn't be very noticeable
to most is the truck is driven every day. But I don't drive my Elky every day so I noticed this. There is no telling just how long this has been a problem for this
truck. At one point or another, when I get some quality time, I'll shoot down the fault in the wiring I am only hopeful that it doesn't burn down before I get the
chance, now that would be a shame! Actually when the truck is running everything is charging properly so what ever it is that is drawing the juice from the
battery it only draws about the same juice as leaving the dome light on or maybe even less current than that, since it takes like two weeks to discharge it to a
point where I need to put it on a charger.
splices possibly someone added a trailer wiring connection to the truck once sometime ago, who knows! But for now, there are only some minor issues that
really bug me about the truck. I can let this little baby sit for two weeks and the battery will completely discharge. This probably wouldn't be very noticeable
to most is the truck is driven every day. But I don't drive my Elky every day so I noticed this. There is no telling just how long this has been a problem for this
truck. At one point or another, when I get some quality time, I'll shoot down the fault in the wiring I am only hopeful that it doesn't burn down before I get the
chance, now that would be a shame! Actually when the truck is running everything is charging properly so what ever it is that is drawing the juice from the
battery it only draws about the same juice as leaving the dome light on or maybe even less current than that, since it takes like two weeks to discharge it to a
point where I need to put it on a charger.
Because I will end up having to troubleshoot the wiring issues anyway, I figure that I will end up buying a Painless
Wiring Harness for this truck also, which would make this the second truck to install the harness in. It will defiantly have
to be a winter project because I really like driving this little beauty around. Much like all the other Classic Car and
Truck owners I don't care to have it out in nasty weather and winter is when most of that happens. Well here in Texas
you really do have to watch out for Spring Time. In the Texas Spring time we can get some pretty nasty weather with
lots of hail and some of it is very large - Softball Sized! And in "Non-Drought" years it will rain a fair amount. Then the
west winds carry dust and dirt from West Texas so that if it is at all moist out in the mornings you could end up with a
layer of red mud on the finish in the mornings. On the 80 SS I installed that harness in the truck while it was stripped
down to nothing almost. So the installation was not hard at all but we'll have to find out how big of a "Mother" this will
be when the time gets here. For now, I leave it on a charger to keep things gold.
When I first got most everything done I had purchased a really cheap CD player to install in the truck. I got this from
Fry's Electronics for around $49.95, yes it was really cheap! I also picked up some really cheap speakers at the Local
Auto parts store that were something like $10.00 a piece and more like the factory replacements for this truck. Back in
76 Stereo and Sound equipment wasn't all that great. It works but only the radio now. The CD Player use to play some
CDs, none that were copied or home made, but still it played. When I'd get on a really rough road then it would
bounce a lot and finally just quit trying and switch to the radio.
Wiring Harness for this truck also, which would make this the second truck to install the harness in. It will defiantly have
to be a winter project because I really like driving this little beauty around. Much like all the other Classic Car and
Truck owners I don't care to have it out in nasty weather and winter is when most of that happens. Well here in Texas
you really do have to watch out for Spring Time. In the Texas Spring time we can get some pretty nasty weather with
lots of hail and some of it is very large - Softball Sized! And in "Non-Drought" years it will rain a fair amount. Then the
west winds carry dust and dirt from West Texas so that if it is at all moist out in the mornings you could end up with a
layer of red mud on the finish in the mornings. On the 80 SS I installed that harness in the truck while it was stripped
down to nothing almost. So the installation was not hard at all but we'll have to find out how big of a "Mother" this will
be when the time gets here. For now, I leave it on a charger to keep things gold.
When I first got most everything done I had purchased a really cheap CD player to install in the truck. I got this from
Fry's Electronics for around $49.95, yes it was really cheap! I also picked up some really cheap speakers at the Local
Auto parts store that were something like $10.00 a piece and more like the factory replacements for this truck. Back in
76 Stereo and Sound equipment wasn't all that great. It works but only the radio now. The CD Player use to play some
CDs, none that were copied or home made, but still it played. When I'd get on a really rough road then it would
bounce a lot and finally just quit trying and switch to the radio.
| Page 1 |
| Page 2 |
| Electrical Schematics for the 76 El Camino Click to see larger Image |
So, I went to my handy J.C. Whitney On-Line Catalog to look for a replacement. My goal the first time was to get some sound in the
truck. It had a AM/FM installed with a Cassette Player but it was a goner and the 6X9" Speakers someone had mounted in the
door panels were almost not there. The cones had deteriorated to a point where almost all the flexible foam binding on the
cones was gone and some pieces of the cones were missing too. They were ugly and I think Jenson, I have to say you could still
hear the sound coming out it was horrible but could still make out if it was music or not, they were mounted in a part of the door
that made the whole inside look cheap! Hell, the whole inside looked cheap anyway and that is a complete different tail! So
sound was the only basic object the first time around.
This time I was looking for something a bit more permanent but still not all that expensive. That is why I went to J. C. Whitney. I
listen to music about half the time I am driving. I like listening to the sound of the engine and getting to know the vehicle's quarks,
rattles and creeks. I use that to determine if something is not right but not out just yet. So, the biggest and baddest wasn't on the
agenda for this Elky just a good inexpensive CD player that I could actually play some home made stuff on as well as my store
bought sounds.
I settled down on a JVC Stereo CD / MP3 player. It says it has a lot of features but I have concluded that those don't do any
good if you trying to adjust them while driving, it really does distract from your attention of things around you. Once again, I
wanted something I could just set and not have to jack with all the stinking time. This was good. It happens that this model came
with a remote control. This always amazed me! Why would you need a remote to operate a stereo, in a car, that you are
driving!?! Have we gotten so darn lazy that we can't reach over and push a button that is a foot or so away from our hand
anyway? Who knows maybe after having this I'll figure out what it is that these are handy for and I'll think they are useful. For
now, I think they add cost and in lots of kids hands can be dangerous for them and other drivers. - Off my soap box!
truck. It had a AM/FM installed with a Cassette Player but it was a goner and the 6X9" Speakers someone had mounted in the
door panels were almost not there. The cones had deteriorated to a point where almost all the flexible foam binding on the
cones was gone and some pieces of the cones were missing too. They were ugly and I think Jenson, I have to say you could still
hear the sound coming out it was horrible but could still make out if it was music or not, they were mounted in a part of the door
that made the whole inside look cheap! Hell, the whole inside looked cheap anyway and that is a complete different tail! So
sound was the only basic object the first time around.
This time I was looking for something a bit more permanent but still not all that expensive. That is why I went to J. C. Whitney. I
listen to music about half the time I am driving. I like listening to the sound of the engine and getting to know the vehicle's quarks,
rattles and creeks. I use that to determine if something is not right but not out just yet. So, the biggest and baddest wasn't on the
agenda for this Elky just a good inexpensive CD player that I could actually play some home made stuff on as well as my store
bought sounds.
I settled down on a JVC Stereo CD / MP3 player. It says it has a lot of features but I have concluded that those don't do any
good if you trying to adjust them while driving, it really does distract from your attention of things around you. Once again, I
wanted something I could just set and not have to jack with all the stinking time. This was good. It happens that this model came
with a remote control. This always amazed me! Why would you need a remote to operate a stereo, in a car, that you are
driving!?! Have we gotten so darn lazy that we can't reach over and push a button that is a foot or so away from our hand
anyway? Who knows maybe after having this I'll figure out what it is that these are handy for and I'll think they are useful. For
now, I think they add cost and in lots of kids hands can be dangerous for them and other drivers. - Off my soap box!
| JVC KD-G700 High-Power CD/MP3 Receiver with Motorized Faceplate * Features CD player, tuner, amplifier and more! Click |
| After Installation click to see! |
I had already installed a pretty nice set of Pioneer 6" round speakers in the front but I still had the "replacement speakers" in the ear panels of the truck. I
have to add that I like this generation of El Camino for this reason, they have a spot to actually mount some speakers behind the seat in the cabin. The ear
boards in the truck are perforated already so in some cases its just a matter of removing the old factory speakers and installing replacements or just installing
speakers and running the wires. These speakers can be 5X7" and still fit well with only some minor modifications needed to mount them. So I installed some
JVC speaker, CS-HX4622 4"x 6" 60-Watts 2-way Speakers w/o grills, in the ear boards where I had the replacement speakers. The JVC speakers were
Coaxial 4" X 6" and could deal with 60 Watts so I figured that they should be a good match for the head unit I got which was also JVC.
have to add that I like this generation of El Camino for this reason, they have a spot to actually mount some speakers behind the seat in the cabin. The ear
boards in the truck are perforated already so in some cases its just a matter of removing the old factory speakers and installing replacements or just installing
speakers and running the wires. These speakers can be 5X7" and still fit well with only some minor modifications needed to mount them. So I installed some
JVC speaker, CS-HX4622 4"x 6" 60-Watts 2-way Speakers w/o grills, in the ear boards where I had the replacement speakers. The JVC speakers were
Coaxial 4" X 6" and could deal with 60 Watts so I figured that they should be a good match for the head unit I got which was also JVC.
Sharp looking—woofer cone is blue.
Unique injection-molded HPO (hybrid colored olefin) woofer cone delivers sound quality and deep
bass reproduction conventional cones can't approach!
PEI (poly-ether-imide) midrange, tweeter and super tweeter cones for astonishing clarity
Titanium dioxide film coating, heavy-duty strontium magnets and rolled butyl rubber edge. Super
resistant to extreme temperatures and vibrations.
4 Ohms.
Unique injection-molded HPO (hybrid colored olefin) woofer cone delivers sound quality and deep
bass reproduction conventional cones can't approach!
PEI (poly-ether-imide) midrange, tweeter and super tweeter cones for astonishing clarity
Titanium dioxide film coating, heavy-duty strontium magnets and rolled butyl rubber edge. Super
resistant to extreme temperatures and vibrations.
4 Ohms.
 |
Rarely do you find a vehicle that has everything you want it to have installed already from the factory. Now lets talk about a 30 year old vehicle and now it's
just not happening. Some things they didn't even make back then and other items were not even options on Cadillacs. I added to this El Camino the items in
the sections below. I added a latching circuit to hold power until the door switch is activated, Electric Window Motors with lighted switches and power
Door Locks. I added some Day-time Running Lamps and Electric Fan and an Electric Fan on the Transmission Cooler. So, not only do some of the
upgrades require more power than the old stuff its a cost that is necessary now to have good performance from the Power Train that is installed. Poorly firing
plugs really tax a motor, low voltages to the ignition through old wiring and old electronic devices, even a simple relay or switch is effected adversely from
low voltages / Amperage. I also tried to take care of that problem. I upgraded the Alternator when changing to a Serpentine belt system. So my alternator is
now outputting 105 Amps at max output and at minimum 65 Amps at idle. I am running all my add in accessories from direct battery source and all through
relays that are switched on by the old device it use to use as a power source. Switches and all that.
As discussed already, I'll eventually re-do the complete wiring in this ride. I did the best job I could to make certain that I didn't create a situation where a
short could happen, not with my wiring. However, I don't see it as permanent ether but I do see it is sufficient in all ways necessary to get the job done and
be reliable until I replace it with a new harness.
just not happening. Some things they didn't even make back then and other items were not even options on Cadillacs. I added to this El Camino the items in
the sections below. I added a latching circuit to hold power until the door switch is activated, Electric Window Motors with lighted switches and power
Door Locks. I added some Day-time Running Lamps and Electric Fan and an Electric Fan on the Transmission Cooler. So, not only do some of the
upgrades require more power than the old stuff its a cost that is necessary now to have good performance from the Power Train that is installed. Poorly firing
plugs really tax a motor, low voltages to the ignition through old wiring and old electronic devices, even a simple relay or switch is effected adversely from
low voltages / Amperage. I also tried to take care of that problem. I upgraded the Alternator when changing to a Serpentine belt system. So my alternator is
now outputting 105 Amps at max output and at minimum 65 Amps at idle. I am running all my add in accessories from direct battery source and all through
relays that are switched on by the old device it use to use as a power source. Switches and all that.
As discussed already, I'll eventually re-do the complete wiring in this ride. I did the best job I could to make certain that I didn't create a situation where a
short could happen, not with my wiring. However, I don't see it as permanent ether but I do see it is sufficient in all ways necessary to get the job done and
be reliable until I replace it with a new harness.
I decided to add some "Bells & Whistles" when installing the new head unit. For my next trick I needed two Bosh
Automotive Relays, Double Pole Double Throw and they really only needed to be moderately low amperage, since
I only want to run the Stereos' power through them. I must say at this point that being part of a large group of
owners (El Camino Central / National El Camino Owners Association) has tons of advantages! No I am
not advertising. I found this nifty little circuit posted on the Web Site and discussion on it's possibilities
and uses. So, just for the record I didn't "invent this circuit" I'm just copying it! Without further ado, I
built a circuit and added an improvement I think, to give the stereo power after the key has been removed until a
door is opened. It's not really a trick to hook your stereos' power to a constant hot so that you can listen to it all the
time key in, key out. However I don't want that I want the power, main power, off for the stereo just like everything
else when I take the key out and there are times, when I am waiting, where I want to here it until I am actually
getting out. So, this circuit is triggered when you open the car door otherwise it keeps power on to the stereo and
can supply the amplifiers power also so that you can still listen and play with the key out of the ignition.
Automotive Relays, Double Pole Double Throw and they really only needed to be moderately low amperage, since
I only want to run the Stereos' power through them. I must say at this point that being part of a large group of
owners (El Camino Central / National El Camino Owners Association) has tons of advantages! No I am
not advertising. I found this nifty little circuit posted on the Web Site and discussion on it's possibilities
and uses. So, just for the record I didn't "invent this circuit" I'm just copying it! Without further ado, I
built a circuit and added an improvement I think, to give the stereo power after the key has been removed until a
door is opened. It's not really a trick to hook your stereos' power to a constant hot so that you can listen to it all the
time key in, key out. However I don't want that I want the power, main power, off for the stereo just like everything
else when I take the key out and there are times, when I am waiting, where I want to here it until I am actually
getting out. So, this circuit is triggered when you open the car door otherwise it keeps power on to the stereo and
can supply the amplifiers power also so that you can still listen and play with the key out of the ignition.
 |
Auxiliary Accessory “Key Off” latching standby power circuit.
Double Relay Operation:
Key switch “on” turns on Relay R1 by applying power through pin 86. Pin 85 is tied to ground
through relay R2’s normally closed output pin 87A. R2’s input pin (30) is connected to a good
permanent ground source. R1’s normally open output latched when key switch is in “On” or
Accessory position. This allows power from a Constant +12Vdc “Fused” source through R1’s Pin
30 to the desired accessory.
When Door is open ground is applied to pin 85 of Relay R2 activating R2 causing ground to pin 85
of Relay R1 to be removed and Relay R1 turns off killing the +12Vdc to the accessory. Properly
connected circuit will allow the “Stereo” to be on after the key is turned off and removed from the
ignition. Opening the door to the car will kill the power to that accessory by activating Relay R2.
Diodes D1 & D2 are blocking diodes and prevent undesired power feedback while diode D3 is
used as a suppression diode for Relay R2. Diode D1 also prevents power from circuit to be fed
back into the automobile’s accessories or other circuits.
Double Relay Operation:
Key switch “on” turns on Relay R1 by applying power through pin 86. Pin 85 is tied to ground
through relay R2’s normally closed output pin 87A. R2’s input pin (30) is connected to a good
permanent ground source. R1’s normally open output latched when key switch is in “On” or
Accessory position. This allows power from a Constant +12Vdc “Fused” source through R1’s Pin
30 to the desired accessory.
When Door is open ground is applied to pin 85 of Relay R2 activating R2 causing ground to pin 85
of Relay R1 to be removed and Relay R1 turns off killing the +12Vdc to the accessory. Properly
connected circuit will allow the “Stereo” to be on after the key is turned off and removed from the
ignition. Opening the door to the car will kill the power to that accessory by activating Relay R2.
Diodes D1 & D2 are blocking diodes and prevent undesired power feedback while diode D3 is
used as a suppression diode for Relay R2. Diode D1 also prevents power from circuit to be fed
back into the automobile’s accessories or other circuits.
 |
What I ended up with is a combination of the two relay circuits. Either of the two circuits will work without modification. I like the three relay circuit better
because it doesn't feed back the accessory power into the main accessories. This conserves power better by only supplying power to the stereo and amps. I
had a slight advantage when doing this because I was changing out the stereo anyway. For a factory installation I'd have to go with the two relay circuit. I
only wanted two relays. It's hard enough trying to "neatly" tuck away the wiring that has been added because of the new electronics anyway. Now on top of
that add two relays and their associated wiring and you really need to be creative with where it all goes. I always leave enough slack in the wiring so that I
can remove the Stereo from the dash without having to reach up behind stuff or under and around junk to disconnect the stereo. So, I have extra wires. One
more relay and it's wiring is too much extra for my taste. So, I used the two relay circuit and added three diodes. When firing a relay from a switch that was
not designed to fire a relay you really should add a suppression diode to the diodes' coil it will be better for the relay and help prevent unwanted feed back of
power or spikes in the circuit. If I was to really get creative I could install a small button or toggle switch that would add the ground needed to manually turn
off the circuit without opening the doors by adding one more diode, the button or switch and connecting that to pin 85 of relay R2. If you just added a wire to
the switch to ground to pin 85 that could cause the interior lights to come on. So you need a diode to prevent that ground from being feed back to the interior
light circuit. It can happen!
because it doesn't feed back the accessory power into the main accessories. This conserves power better by only supplying power to the stereo and amps. I
had a slight advantage when doing this because I was changing out the stereo anyway. For a factory installation I'd have to go with the two relay circuit. I
only wanted two relays. It's hard enough trying to "neatly" tuck away the wiring that has been added because of the new electronics anyway. Now on top of
that add two relays and their associated wiring and you really need to be creative with where it all goes. I always leave enough slack in the wiring so that I
can remove the Stereo from the dash without having to reach up behind stuff or under and around junk to disconnect the stereo. So, I have extra wires. One
more relay and it's wiring is too much extra for my taste. So, I used the two relay circuit and added three diodes. When firing a relay from a switch that was
not designed to fire a relay you really should add a suppression diode to the diodes' coil it will be better for the relay and help prevent unwanted feed back of
power or spikes in the circuit. If I was to really get creative I could install a small button or toggle switch that would add the ground needed to manually turn
off the circuit without opening the doors by adding one more diode, the button or switch and connecting that to pin 85 of relay R2. If you just added a wire to
the switch to ground to pin 85 that could cause the interior lights to come on. So you need a diode to prevent that ground from being feed back to the interior
light circuit. It can happen!
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It was March 2005 when I finally decided to fix some issues with my 76. So, by the beginning of April of 2005 I had installed my
new Electric Cooling fan on the radiator. It is a Black Magic by "Flex-O-Lite", I also installed a Transmission Cooler with it's own
Electric Fan. The Transmission Cooler is one from B&M and will help keep my transmission cooler than normal. I'll hook the fan
power on through a switch in the cabin along with adding a manual "Fan On" switch for the radiator fan inside also.
new Electric Cooling fan on the radiator. It is a Black Magic by "Flex-O-Lite", I also installed a Transmission Cooler with it's own
Electric Fan. The Transmission Cooler is one from B&M and will help keep my transmission cooler than normal. I'll hook the fan
power on through a switch in the cabin along with adding a manual "Fan On" switch for the radiator fan inside also.
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| After new fan installation. |
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For a lot of reasons, I decided to install some driving/fog/Day-Time Running Lights on my El Camino. I needed only to decide where they'd look best and
still operate and function like I wanted them to. I bought some premium Driving / Fog lights. I wasn't really enthused about drilling holes in my bumper so I
looked for some factory holes that were not used. I found two symmetrical sets of holes. One set on the outside of the bumper and another set on the
inside. The holes were way larger then I needed them so I needed some washers to cover the holes. Then I was in business! It was a light kit so it came
with everything to hook Halogen lamps into the vehicles and provided a switch for the inside. I didn't use the switch for operation. I wanted theses on
anytime I was driving so a "Key-On" Hot Wire was enough and I had that already for the Electric Fan. I tapped into that wire with a three way splice. This
would energize the "Relay" and the power for the lamps was coming directly from the battery giving me the brightest level for the lamps. I chose the inside
set of holes which put the lamps on ether side of the license plate under the bumper. Discrete and low, so I am not blinding people on the street but can still
be plainly seen in the day or night and they'll help tremendously if I end up in fog because they are low. They are not low enough to become a constant
source of worry when I am around speed bumps or parking lots.
still operate and function like I wanted them to. I bought some premium Driving / Fog lights. I wasn't really enthused about drilling holes in my bumper so I
looked for some factory holes that were not used. I found two symmetrical sets of holes. One set on the outside of the bumper and another set on the
inside. The holes were way larger then I needed them so I needed some washers to cover the holes. Then I was in business! It was a light kit so it came
with everything to hook Halogen lamps into the vehicles and provided a switch for the inside. I didn't use the switch for operation. I wanted theses on
anytime I was driving so a "Key-On" Hot Wire was enough and I had that already for the Electric Fan. I tapped into that wire with a three way splice. This
would energize the "Relay" and the power for the lamps was coming directly from the battery giving me the brightest level for the lamps. I chose the inside
set of holes which put the lamps on ether side of the license plate under the bumper. Discrete and low, so I am not blinding people on the street but can still
be plainly seen in the day or night and they'll help tremendously if I end up in fog because they are low. They are not low enough to become a constant
source of worry when I am around speed bumps or parking lots.
| JVC speaker, CS-HX4622 4"x 6" 60-Watts 2-way Speakers |
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