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| GM Crate ZZ383 425 Hp & 460 Lb/Ft. of Troque |
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I didn't stop there. I took off the valve covers, the rockers went next and then the heads. For the Heads I liked what
GM had they are good. I had in mind what I thought was a better head so I removed the Fast Burn Heads and
installed some Aluminum Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads. Then I didn't quite like the CAM GM used its is a great
CAM but it could use a but more lift so I installed a set of 1.6:1 ratio Proform Extruded Aluminum Roller Rockers
with Posi-Locs. After that I capped off the intake with the Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap Intake Manifold. I had
also acquired a Serpentine accessory drive system complete with all I'd need to convert this to a single belt setup. So, I
installed the serpentine setup, the heads, intake, a new Edelbrock Performer mechanical Fuel Pump and a Edelbrock
Performer 1411, 750 CFM Carburetor With electric Choke and Vacuum Secondaries to top off my engine.
GM had they are good. I had in mind what I thought was a better head so I removed the Fast Burn Heads and
installed some Aluminum Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads. Then I didn't quite like the CAM GM used its is a great
CAM but it could use a but more lift so I installed a set of 1.6:1 ratio Proform Extruded Aluminum Roller Rockers
with Posi-Locs. After that I capped off the intake with the Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap Intake Manifold. I had
also acquired a Serpentine accessory drive system complete with all I'd need to convert this to a single belt setup. So, I
installed the serpentine setup, the heads, intake, a new Edelbrock Performer mechanical Fuel Pump and a Edelbrock
Performer 1411, 750 CFM Carburetor With electric Choke and Vacuum Secondaries to top off my engine.
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I also decided at this point, I should upgrade some other stuff. My Ignition System was over 30 years old and the
transmission was not as fuel efficient as it should be now days. Along with those items, I wanted to add a set of
headers and some good true dual exhaust system. Of course none of this happened like clock work or as it is written.
It was jumping from one crisis to another it seemed like. My first shot with a rebuilt engine was a painful one and the
second turned out to be no better of an experience and even more costly. I decided that GM was a good choice and this
one was Brand Spanking New! Jim Pace was where I got my Crate ZZ383. They matched a cost I had found at Jeg's on
line. This one has a warranty, just in case! I used my serpentine setup, my starter, intake, heads, rockers, and Headers
and this time I got rid of the belt driven fan. I got a New Flex-O-Lite electric fan w/15" blades that moves around 2800
CFM of air @ 2200 RPM. I went all the way this has a full contact rubber seal and mounting brackets that adjust so
you don't have to stick things through the radiator core. I gain back some of my HP with this little gadget and also a
little fuel economy. "Fuel Economy" is not the reason I decided to go this route but it never hurts! I'd set the electronic
thermostat control to 180 degrees. I did want to dress this engine up some before I just drive the shit out of it. I
installed my Edelbrock Aluminum Tall Valve Covers and a Polished Billet Aluminum swivel thermostat housing and
a Lokar Dipstick. The heads and intake look pretty nice on their own contrasting on the now Plumb Purple block but
adding the zinc-plated fuel pump, the Ceramic Coated Headers, the valve covers, the Billet Aluminum 5 Spoke K&N
Air Cleaner and that Edelbrock Performer Carburetor all makes a statement to those who know I think.
transmission was not as fuel efficient as it should be now days. Along with those items, I wanted to add a set of
headers and some good true dual exhaust system. Of course none of this happened like clock work or as it is written.
It was jumping from one crisis to another it seemed like. My first shot with a rebuilt engine was a painful one and the
second turned out to be no better of an experience and even more costly. I decided that GM was a good choice and this
one was Brand Spanking New! Jim Pace was where I got my Crate ZZ383. They matched a cost I had found at Jeg's on
line. This one has a warranty, just in case! I used my serpentine setup, my starter, intake, heads, rockers, and Headers
and this time I got rid of the belt driven fan. I got a New Flex-O-Lite electric fan w/15" blades that moves around 2800
CFM of air @ 2200 RPM. I went all the way this has a full contact rubber seal and mounting brackets that adjust so
you don't have to stick things through the radiator core. I gain back some of my HP with this little gadget and also a
little fuel economy. "Fuel Economy" is not the reason I decided to go this route but it never hurts! I'd set the electronic
thermostat control to 180 degrees. I did want to dress this engine up some before I just drive the shit out of it. I
installed my Edelbrock Aluminum Tall Valve Covers and a Polished Billet Aluminum swivel thermostat housing and
a Lokar Dipstick. The heads and intake look pretty nice on their own contrasting on the now Plumb Purple block but
adding the zinc-plated fuel pump, the Ceramic Coated Headers, the valve covers, the Billet Aluminum 5 Spoke K&N
Air Cleaner and that Edelbrock Performer Carburetor all makes a statement to those who know I think.
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My decision to upgrade my transmission came from a necessity of "Needing a new Transmission" when the old 350 turbo tore apart
under my truck. What started at Kennadale Race Track finished on I35 South. The first cracks in the bellhousing were found after
running for times at "Test and Tune" night at the track. At the time it went I was on a highway doing about 70 going to pass a big
truck. I was probably 15 miles from my house about the same distance away from the shop, I normally do wok at, and probably
around 5 miles from an exit with a phone. I don't carry a cell phone I don't think I am all that important and it distracts me from my
driving and Driving is what it is all about! So, Cell Phones Suck from my perspective! The old 350 broke all the way around the
bellhousing and actually twisted under the truck and pulled loose the shifting linkage. I had been using a THM 350 with a shift kit in the
truck along with a B&M 2200 RPM Stall converter which, I didn't really care for. I had never had a transmission actually brake like this
before. I have lost some 350s in my days be never has one actually broke like this one did. It cause a lot of damage to more than the
transmission
I had this really nice 383 and wanted to be able to get a little better performance that I had been getting. I decided this was a good time
to upgrade the rear end gears for the 2.73:1 to a 3.73:1 and in doing that I"d need an overdrive so I could get on the highway and still
cruise at speeds of 70 to 80 with minimal noise and stuff like that. I also wanted to have better economy than I would be getting if I just
replaced the 350 with another one. SO I asked Mitch if he knew someone that did good work on performance minded 700R4s and he
did. This guy just happen to be a Transmission Masters, which is a local chain. He would build me a stout 700R4 that would put up
with my little 383 and it was going to cost me right at $1010.00 with a converter. It was a non-lockup type of 700R4, that is what I
had wanted.
I picked up the 700R4 at Transmission Masters off of South 820 West and Hwy 377 in North Richland Hills area of Ft. Worth. It really
wasn't as bad to install as I had been lead to believe. I did end up making a new set of cooling lines for the transmission but that was
more because the old ones had some kinks and bends that had been straightened out but I wanted some new smooth lines that fit like
they should. My old ones were also leaking a little and I figured that since I had no reason to believe these were not the original lines
GM installed they were also 30 years old or close to 30. I picked up some new lines at the local Auto Supply. I bent them with a tubing
bender to match them to the truck just like the old lines had looked when they were new. I also added a new Transmission fluid cooler
with an electric fan. I new that the transmission would have to deal with some serious torque and being a non-lockup type of
transmission it would run hotter naturally than one with a lockup type of converter. So, in my assessment I decided safe was best and
spent the money on a really good one from B&M. I also got an Extra Deep Pan "3 Qts. extra" with a filter extension. Sometimes the
problem with a transmission is that it depletes the fluid in the pan to quickly creating a heating problem as well as loss of power. With
the additional 3 quarts of fluid this shouldn't be a problem any longer as long as the transmission has access to that extra capacity, that
is why the extension for the filter. Also this will help out some in cooling too because there is a larger quantity of fluid and the fluid in
the pan has more area for cooling so more cooling in the pan takes place.
under my truck. What started at Kennadale Race Track finished on I35 South. The first cracks in the bellhousing were found after
running for times at "Test and Tune" night at the track. At the time it went I was on a highway doing about 70 going to pass a big
truck. I was probably 15 miles from my house about the same distance away from the shop, I normally do wok at, and probably
around 5 miles from an exit with a phone. I don't carry a cell phone I don't think I am all that important and it distracts me from my
driving and Driving is what it is all about! So, Cell Phones Suck from my perspective! The old 350 broke all the way around the
bellhousing and actually twisted under the truck and pulled loose the shifting linkage. I had been using a THM 350 with a shift kit in the
truck along with a B&M 2200 RPM Stall converter which, I didn't really care for. I had never had a transmission actually brake like this
before. I have lost some 350s in my days be never has one actually broke like this one did. It cause a lot of damage to more than the
transmission
I had this really nice 383 and wanted to be able to get a little better performance that I had been getting. I decided this was a good time
to upgrade the rear end gears for the 2.73:1 to a 3.73:1 and in doing that I"d need an overdrive so I could get on the highway and still
cruise at speeds of 70 to 80 with minimal noise and stuff like that. I also wanted to have better economy than I would be getting if I just
replaced the 350 with another one. SO I asked Mitch if he knew someone that did good work on performance minded 700R4s and he
did. This guy just happen to be a Transmission Masters, which is a local chain. He would build me a stout 700R4 that would put up
with my little 383 and it was going to cost me right at $1010.00 with a converter. It was a non-lockup type of 700R4, that is what I
had wanted.
I picked up the 700R4 at Transmission Masters off of South 820 West and Hwy 377 in North Richland Hills area of Ft. Worth. It really
wasn't as bad to install as I had been lead to believe. I did end up making a new set of cooling lines for the transmission but that was
more because the old ones had some kinks and bends that had been straightened out but I wanted some new smooth lines that fit like
they should. My old ones were also leaking a little and I figured that since I had no reason to believe these were not the original lines
GM installed they were also 30 years old or close to 30. I picked up some new lines at the local Auto Supply. I bent them with a tubing
bender to match them to the truck just like the old lines had looked when they were new. I also added a new Transmission fluid cooler
with an electric fan. I new that the transmission would have to deal with some serious torque and being a non-lockup type of
transmission it would run hotter naturally than one with a lockup type of converter. So, in my assessment I decided safe was best and
spent the money on a really good one from B&M. I also got an Extra Deep Pan "3 Qts. extra" with a filter extension. Sometimes the
problem with a transmission is that it depletes the fluid in the pan to quickly creating a heating problem as well as loss of power. With
the additional 3 quarts of fluid this shouldn't be a problem any longer as long as the transmission has access to that extra capacity, that
is why the extension for the filter. Also this will help out some in cooling too because there is a larger quantity of fluid and the fluid in
the pan has more area for cooling so more cooling in the pan takes place.
 |
 |
I also got a Lokar TV Cable and Dipstick for a 700R4 the settings on the TV Cable is pretty critical to the proper operation of the 700R4 and 200R4 transmissions. So
I had spent a good deal of time looking into this subject. Every single web site you visit that deals with the overdrive GMs have mention of this and many different
methods. There is also the GM Manual with its factory procedures. I figure somewhere in all of that information is where my understanding of the functioning of the
TV valve should be. Installing the Lokar cable and dipstick was a "no-brainer". If you can tie your shoes then you can install these little upgrades. I also got a Lokar
Throttle cable and TV Cable bracket. This makes everything look neater and fit correctly. I found a suitable location on the fire wall to mount the dipstick however, I
didn't want it to be directly up against the fire wall. I wanted some room. I fabricated me a bracket out of thin gage metal strap stock and sanded it and painted that
black like the fire wall and mounted it all. The Lokar Dipstick comes with a filler/funnel tip for your funnel or filler. It is such that you will absolutely have to have a
funnel to use this or add fluid to the transmission. On the transmission end there is an O-Ring that seats in the dipstick hole. No other tools are needed.
I had spent a good deal of time looking into this subject. Every single web site you visit that deals with the overdrive GMs have mention of this and many different
methods. There is also the GM Manual with its factory procedures. I figure somewhere in all of that information is where my understanding of the functioning of the
TV valve should be. Installing the Lokar cable and dipstick was a "no-brainer". If you can tie your shoes then you can install these little upgrades. I also got a Lokar
Throttle cable and TV Cable bracket. This makes everything look neater and fit correctly. I found a suitable location on the fire wall to mount the dipstick however, I
didn't want it to be directly up against the fire wall. I wanted some room. I fabricated me a bracket out of thin gage metal strap stock and sanded it and painted that
black like the fire wall and mounted it all. The Lokar Dipstick comes with a filler/funnel tip for your funnel or filler. It is such that you will absolutely have to have a
funnel to use this or add fluid to the transmission. On the transmission end there is an O-Ring that seats in the dipstick hole. No other tools are needed.
Another tragedy in paradise for my little 76. It was the first of April 2005 when I started pulling out my engine and transmission
from the 76. Once again, I broke a transmission housing this one was on the new 700R4 transmission. I wanted a reliable ride
and so far that hasn't been possible with my 76. So, I was going to tear it all apart this time, no guessing I was going to locate
the problem and fix them once and for all! I got it all out and started ripping apart the power plant. I've had a vibration ever
since I put this together and I was going to locate the reason why. I discovered that my COMP Cam was flat on #1 cylinder
exhaust valve and had been since Cam Brake in. I pulled that piece of crap out and the lifters. Installed the GM Hot Cam that
was in the 383 and roller lifters. I took the transmission and double welded the casing. Added reinforcing aluminum plates and
installed it all back.
from the 76. Once again, I broke a transmission housing this one was on the new 700R4 transmission. I wanted a reliable ride
and so far that hasn't been possible with my 76. So, I was going to tear it all apart this time, no guessing I was going to locate
the problem and fix them once and for all! I got it all out and started ripping apart the power plant. I've had a vibration ever
since I put this together and I was going to locate the reason why. I discovered that my COMP Cam was flat on #1 cylinder
exhaust valve and had been since Cam Brake in. I pulled that piece of crap out and the lifters. Installed the GM Hot Cam that
was in the 383 and roller lifters. I took the transmission and double welded the casing. Added reinforcing aluminum plates and
installed it all back.
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Power Train vibrations can be damaging and you just never know where the damage is going to happen! Its just not a good thing to have happening inside the engine.
I had found the vibration source, the dead cylinder I had been dragging. I now was going to go a little backwards with things but only for a spell. I recheck all for
cracks in other spots, cleaned up the block, re-painted it Plumb Purple, and the Edelbrock Air Gap got a coat. I painted my serpentine brackets and installed a little
more dress up and by April 10th I had it all done and ready to go back in and be checked. Installation I'll re-check the side to side alignment on the transmission tail
shaft just to be on the safe side. I also added a New Electric Fan, and a B&M Transmission cooler and the lines, well one I had to make and the other I used a flex
line on since I didn't want to re-make the cooling line all the way back to the transmission. I like hard lines where I can use them, they are 100% more reliable than
flex of any type but, you can't use them all the time and in some situations you must have flexible lines.
I had found the vibration source, the dead cylinder I had been dragging. I now was going to go a little backwards with things but only for a spell. I recheck all for
cracks in other spots, cleaned up the block, re-painted it Plumb Purple, and the Edelbrock Air Gap got a coat. I painted my serpentine brackets and installed a little
more dress up and by April 10th I had it all done and ready to go back in and be checked. Installation I'll re-check the side to side alignment on the transmission tail
shaft just to be on the safe side. I also added a New Electric Fan, and a B&M Transmission cooler and the lines, well one I had to make and the other I used a flex
line on since I didn't want to re-make the cooling line all the way back to the transmission. I like hard lines where I can use them, they are 100% more reliable than
flex of any type but, you can't use them all the time and in some situations you must have flexible lines.
 |
After finishing the installation of the new 700R4 I had two more things that had to be done before I would drive it again. First I needed to make a new driveshaft or
cut this one down or find one somewhere that would fit and secondly I was going to put in a new set of gears in the rear end. I figured while I was at it, I would also
rebuild the rear end as I did in my 80 SS Elky. I didn't want to go with such a high step as with the 80 but something with a little better stop light appeal but not too
outrageous would work. I decided on 3.73:1 gears. GM Offers this set in the Vette and some of their Pickups so the 700R4 shouldn't complain. I ordered a B&M
Master Rebuild kit and a set of Richmond gears from Jeg's.
The Rebuild kit comes with all the bearings and seals and a new crush washer and shims, everything necessary to rebuild the rear end and replace the bearings and
seals on the axles. It also comes with marking compound. For me in thins case this was a good thing. The Richmond Gears came with some marking compound also
so, I had plenty. When I tore into the differential it was apparent that someone had been here before me but after GM. Everything I had removed from the truck that
was there before I got it shows signs of misuse and neglect. The rear End was no different in that respect. After getting it apart I found evidence of the rear end being
ran without oil in it. The Spider gears were scored on the indicate where the pin goes through them and the pin was all scored up also. The gears had marking on it
that were evidence that they had been replaced sometime before now.
cut this one down or find one somewhere that would fit and secondly I was going to put in a new set of gears in the rear end. I figured while I was at it, I would also
rebuild the rear end as I did in my 80 SS Elky. I didn't want to go with such a high step as with the 80 but something with a little better stop light appeal but not too
outrageous would work. I decided on 3.73:1 gears. GM Offers this set in the Vette and some of their Pickups so the 700R4 shouldn't complain. I ordered a B&M
Master Rebuild kit and a set of Richmond gears from Jeg's.
The Rebuild kit comes with all the bearings and seals and a new crush washer and shims, everything necessary to rebuild the rear end and replace the bearings and
seals on the axles. It also comes with marking compound. For me in thins case this was a good thing. The Richmond Gears came with some marking compound also
so, I had plenty. When I tore into the differential it was apparent that someone had been here before me but after GM. Everything I had removed from the truck that
was there before I got it shows signs of misuse and neglect. The rear End was no different in that respect. After getting it apart I found evidence of the rear end being
ran without oil in it. The Spider gears were scored on the indicate where the pin goes through them and the pin was all scored up also. The gears had marking on it
that were evidence that they had been replaced sometime before now.
When I removed the carrier bearing they had turned blue in spots which says that these were under a great deal of heat at one time or
another so I can be pretty sure of two things now. 1.) Is that someone neglected to take care of this truck in the past and 2.) They paid
for lowest bidder to fix the damage it caused. If this repair had been done at a GM shop or other reputable shop then the spiders and the
pin would have been replaced. It didn't even look as though anyone had tried to clean up the marks and damage with emory cloth. None
of the bearings or races were replaced none of the spiders or the stuff that caught the most damage only the part that gets you rolling, the
Ring and Pinion.
So I removed the ring and pinion and took the ring off the carrier and inspected that for cracks and evidence of damage or heat related
damage. Heat problems can cause the metal to weaken and fail under loads. So, for me, it was important, now that I knew the last owners
were jerks, to make sure everything was still fit to use, well, the stuff I did decide to use again which was basically the carrier only.
I took the bearing off the Pinion so that I could measure that shim. I've come to understand that is a big key in getting the pinion depth set
correctly quicker than experimenting. Generally speaking, the one that came on it should be the same or really close to the shim that goes
back on the pinion or between the pinion and the bearing. That is actually the pinion depth and it doesn't really change much unless for
some reason the cut in the differential snout changes. I guess that could happen!
Using a new shim the same size as the one under the bearing on the old pinion I started installation. I had to remove the old bearing from
the carrier and for that you really need to have a press that you can use and it should be a big one. We got the old bearings off and
installed the new ones and I was back on my way. I installed the new Ring Gear on the carrier and it fit just as it should and I cranked
down setting each bolt at torque specifications. Once that was done I used the old shim packs from each side to set a starting depth /
position.
another so I can be pretty sure of two things now. 1.) Is that someone neglected to take care of this truck in the past and 2.) They paid
for lowest bidder to fix the damage it caused. If this repair had been done at a GM shop or other reputable shop then the spiders and the
pin would have been replaced. It didn't even look as though anyone had tried to clean up the marks and damage with emory cloth. None
of the bearings or races were replaced none of the spiders or the stuff that caught the most damage only the part that gets you rolling, the
Ring and Pinion.
So I removed the ring and pinion and took the ring off the carrier and inspected that for cracks and evidence of damage or heat related
damage. Heat problems can cause the metal to weaken and fail under loads. So, for me, it was important, now that I knew the last owners
were jerks, to make sure everything was still fit to use, well, the stuff I did decide to use again which was basically the carrier only.
I took the bearing off the Pinion so that I could measure that shim. I've come to understand that is a big key in getting the pinion depth set
correctly quicker than experimenting. Generally speaking, the one that came on it should be the same or really close to the shim that goes
back on the pinion or between the pinion and the bearing. That is actually the pinion depth and it doesn't really change much unless for
some reason the cut in the differential snout changes. I guess that could happen!
Using a new shim the same size as the one under the bearing on the old pinion I started installation. I had to remove the old bearing from
the carrier and for that you really need to have a press that you can use and it should be a big one. We got the old bearings off and
installed the new ones and I was back on my way. I installed the new Ring Gear on the carrier and it fit just as it should and I cranked
down setting each bolt at torque specifications. Once that was done I used the old shim packs from each side to set a starting depth /
position.
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Once I got the Carrier ready I set the new races in place and tapped those in to position with a brass drift pin and ball peen hammer. I slid the pinion in and installed
the outer bearing and then the crush washer, washer and nut and pulled in the pinion up to the crush washer and then using a very long steel cheater pipe I pulled in
the crush washer some. I then checked the depth and angle and using shims I adjusted, moved and tightened until everything was to specifications that came with the
new gear set. Pinion depth and preload and as a final look we used the marking compound to check the depth and angles to make sure we had the gears meshing
correctly for proper wear and operation. I installed the new gasket to the cover and sealed up the rear end. I put in the required amount of gear lube and connected
back the drive shaft to the rear end and I was now ready to test the truck.
I noticed right away that it got up in RPM much quicker now and felt more peppy. I took it out on the road for a short three or four block drive and back to the shop
to look for leaks and check the heat. I've touched the differentials after a good drive before and feel pretty confident that I can tell by feel if this are too hot or about
correct. Everything seemed to be good so far. I let it cool off again then I went for a freeway trip. I took the truck back to my house in SW Ft. Worth which, is
around 22 miles and I drove at differing speeds. Its just a thing for me the gears needed the brake in but I don't actually know if you have to vary speeds I do it
because in New cars you are required to drive them that way on the highway for the first tank of two of gas. Some of that is for braking in the rings properly and
probably other parts of the engine and drive train need that also. So I do it as habit now.
I checked again when I got home to see if I felt like things were heating up too high after that drive. I would expect some amount of heat above what is normal for a
few trips or until the gears start wearing good. But to my surprise the differential was pretty close to where I felt normal operating range would be. My next upgrade
is to install a PowerTrax Lock-Rite Locker in this Pumpkin. In the 80 SS I installed a PowerTrax Locking Differential which is designed for more street friendly
application. The Lock-Rite Locker is a true locker that does allow for disengagement when cornering. But it is somewhat harsher on the street than the other. I'll also
pay less for the locker and since I'll be doing most of the driving it will be alright with me. At the track I'll have a solid two wheel launch and obtain the best traction
my truck will get with what I have on it now.
the outer bearing and then the crush washer, washer and nut and pulled in the pinion up to the crush washer and then using a very long steel cheater pipe I pulled in
the crush washer some. I then checked the depth and angle and using shims I adjusted, moved and tightened until everything was to specifications that came with the
new gear set. Pinion depth and preload and as a final look we used the marking compound to check the depth and angles to make sure we had the gears meshing
correctly for proper wear and operation. I installed the new gasket to the cover and sealed up the rear end. I put in the required amount of gear lube and connected
back the drive shaft to the rear end and I was now ready to test the truck.
I noticed right away that it got up in RPM much quicker now and felt more peppy. I took it out on the road for a short three or four block drive and back to the shop
to look for leaks and check the heat. I've touched the differentials after a good drive before and feel pretty confident that I can tell by feel if this are too hot or about
correct. Everything seemed to be good so far. I let it cool off again then I went for a freeway trip. I took the truck back to my house in SW Ft. Worth which, is
around 22 miles and I drove at differing speeds. Its just a thing for me the gears needed the brake in but I don't actually know if you have to vary speeds I do it
because in New cars you are required to drive them that way on the highway for the first tank of two of gas. Some of that is for braking in the rings properly and
probably other parts of the engine and drive train need that also. So I do it as habit now.
I checked again when I got home to see if I felt like things were heating up too high after that drive. I would expect some amount of heat above what is normal for a
few trips or until the gears start wearing good. But to my surprise the differential was pretty close to where I felt normal operating range would be. My next upgrade
is to install a PowerTrax Lock-Rite Locker in this Pumpkin. In the 80 SS I installed a PowerTrax Locking Differential which is designed for more street friendly
application. The Lock-Rite Locker is a true locker that does allow for disengagement when cornering. But it is somewhat harsher on the street than the other. I'll also
pay less for the locker and since I'll be doing most of the driving it will be alright with me. At the track I'll have a solid two wheel launch and obtain the best traction
my truck will get with what I have on it now.
 |
| The final step in the drive train upgrade is to add some traction! Well traction is really not something you can actually - "Add." But for a slight cost I can buy a piece or so that will assist in improving the traction I can get. Presently, this El Camino has a 10 Bolt 8.5" 30 spline Open differential. With the new Richmond Gear Ring and Pinion @ 3.73:1 and the 460 flywheel torque the one with the least traction gets grease first! And.... It stays like that, spinning that poor little wheel. Because the way this is working I lost traction and keep loosing it each take off. So, On with this part. I decided to install a Power-Trax Lock-Right Locker in my 76! Power-Trax is another Richmond Gear owned company. I installed a Power-Trax Locking device in the 80SS Project Truck. I don't have to worry about over powering the Power-Trax Locker because its matched to the size and capabilities of the differential and gears. So if I am overpowering the rear end anyway then I'll more than likely tear up the Differential along with the Power-Trax device. I looked into this a lot and other than the noise this device is about as good as it gets. Cost factors in here too. This device is cheaper than the one I installed in the 80SS because its more noisy but its also stronger than that one and operates very much like the other. |
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| This should be the last time, all stays good, I pull the differential cover off. This installation is a simple install, it was for the 80 also. First off find a place, come with differential lube, gasket and some jack stands along with a floor jack. I drink coffee most of the time so for me, I'll have my thermos of coffee close by and my cup at hand. This task will take me about 2 hours if I ordered the correct spline count! Ok, I guessed at the spline count, its a truck and has a greater towing capability and heavier load ratings than a sedan, so, it stands to reason that GM would make the bigger axel for this application which is a 30 spline. Cars and most Chevells had a 28 spline, which is another reason not to get a differential from a Monty or Chevelle when possible, the El Camino is rated as a truck and has truck drive train. It does pretty good as it is now but after I do expect that it will pin that butt to the seat really good after the install. |
In October 2002, I had finally decided to fix a problem or two with the engine. It seems as though it has developed a rather growing
need for oil since I first got the engine. I decided to fix that issue. While I had the heartbeat out of her I'd give her just a little bit more
energy. On November 15 I had collected all the items I needed to complete the task. I decided to install a new 383. I keep a clean engine
it saves me countless time on finding problems or spotting potential leaks. We sat out on a Saturday in November 2002 to completely
overhaul the 350 that was in my truck. This has been a long awaited upgrade and rebuild.
need for oil since I first got the engine. I decided to fix that issue. While I had the heartbeat out of her I'd give her just a little bit more
energy. On November 15 I had collected all the items I needed to complete the task. I decided to install a new 383. I keep a clean engine
it saves me countless time on finding problems or spotting potential leaks. We sat out on a Saturday in November 2002 to completely
overhaul the 350 that was in my truck. This has been a long awaited upgrade and rebuild.
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