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The electrical wiring that the 80 had in it had been damaged pretty bad when I got
it. It sat up in the yard for a while after I got the truck before I ever got started
messing with it. Once we got it inside the shop and started to tear everything off of
it there was a small family of squirrels living in the engine compartment. Apart from
the initial damaged wiring these little guys chewed off much of the insulation from a
lot of the wiring along the fire wall.
Much like everything else I decided, after tearing apart everything, that I needed to
replace the wiring with new wiring, if I could find the correct bundle and it was
new. After all, I was taking everything off the truck so this is a great opportunity. I
looked around at several places. I could have ordered the bundle in it's many parts,
from Factory Fit. Meanwhile, I fond Painless wiring harnesses and started to read
up on them. That was a cheaper way if they would work for my little Elky. I soon
found that they made a harness replacement but an enhanced replacement that was
generic enough to not only wold perfectly but add the accessories that I wanted to
add on to the truck. So I decided that the Painless wiring harness 18 Circuit GM
column keyed wold be the way I'd go.
it. It sat up in the yard for a while after I got the truck before I ever got started
messing with it. Once we got it inside the shop and started to tear everything off of
it there was a small family of squirrels living in the engine compartment. Apart from
the initial damaged wiring these little guys chewed off much of the insulation from a
lot of the wiring along the fire wall.
Much like everything else I decided, after tearing apart everything, that I needed to
replace the wiring with new wiring, if I could find the correct bundle and it was
new. After all, I was taking everything off the truck so this is a great opportunity. I
looked around at several places. I could have ordered the bundle in it's many parts,
from Factory Fit. Meanwhile, I fond Painless wiring harnesses and started to read
up on them. That was a cheaper way if they would work for my little Elky. I soon
found that they made a harness replacement but an enhanced replacement that was
generic enough to not only wold perfectly but add the accessories that I wanted to
add on to the truck. So I decided that the Painless wiring harness 18 Circuit GM
column keyed wold be the way I'd go.
 |
| times |
I ordered the harness from Jeg's and it came in one small box. The contents looked just like their add so there was no shock there and it appeared to have pretty much
everything I'd need with the exceptions of my customizing. I purchased some MDS Weatherproof connectors at the same time I ordered the wiring harness. I plan to
be able to unplug the bumper's electronics, the engine harness and other things to make it more convenient to work on in the future.
It was the beginning of August 2005 when I got to the point in my project where I felt it was time to begin installing the wiring for the Elky. I had gotten just about as
far as I could with the interior and reached a stopping point, now I have to begin the wiring installation before I can continue. I'd have to make me a wiring harness
for the custom console I had made and for the fascia, lay down the wires for speakers and power for the back, well everything I can at this point in the project. Each
step from now on will be learning so I'll have to be cautious with what I am doing so that later, if I should need to, I can add or take away as necessary to complete
the wiring with no hacked up parts. I hate wiring issues besides, bad wiring can burn your investment down sure as having a wreck can ruin it. For now, I'll proceed
with caution and start with the small harness I'll have to create from scratch.
everything I'd need with the exceptions of my customizing. I purchased some MDS Weatherproof connectors at the same time I ordered the wiring harness. I plan to
be able to unplug the bumper's electronics, the engine harness and other things to make it more convenient to work on in the future.
It was the beginning of August 2005 when I got to the point in my project where I felt it was time to begin installing the wiring for the Elky. I had gotten just about as
far as I could with the interior and reached a stopping point, now I have to begin the wiring installation before I can continue. I'd have to make me a wiring harness
for the custom console I had made and for the fascia, lay down the wires for speakers and power for the back, well everything I can at this point in the project. Each
step from now on will be learning so I'll have to be cautious with what I am doing so that later, if I should need to, I can add or take away as necessary to complete
the wiring with no hacked up parts. I hate wiring issues besides, bad wiring can burn your investment down sure as having a wreck can ruin it. For now, I'll proceed
with caution and start with the small harness I'll have to create from scratch.
 |
I wanted to convert this truck to electric windows and door locks and add the third brake light, in the rear deck spoiler, along with
upgrading the lights with Halogen Quarts and some DRL or (Day Time Running Limps) that will combine as fog/driving auxiliary
lights. I wanted to add an Alarm with remote lock and unlock and a Bed Lid Lift system and Tail Gate lift set up. I want to have
accessories available in the Carpeted bed and lighting in the bed. I also wanted to install some real backup lights that are far better
for seeing behind you at night and present an unmistakably bright object for other cars when in reverse.
I wanted to make it so I could disconnect the engine wiring harness without ever turning a wrench. I wanted each light to have a
relay and to be able to let the alarm system disconnect the starter and ignition. I would design in Relays to give the lights and
accessories direct power from the battery eliminating GM's way of going through the switches in the dash. I also needed more than
the flex circuit on the back of the instrument cluster could offer in the way of adding custom gauges and lighting as well as some
information displays. So, I have many planned upgrades that would be a lot more difficult with a factory type of wiring harness. In
the end I think I would end up spending a lot more money and time and not end up with a job that was as safe and well done as this
way.
I'll try to show lots of photos when I get to the customizing and also the general wiring. Maybe my experiences can help someone
else and some of that is the reason for my project pages. Some of it is bragging and some is just writing down for my own record
what I did and what it took. Where I started and where it ended.
upgrading the lights with Halogen Quarts and some DRL or (Day Time Running Limps) that will combine as fog/driving auxiliary
lights. I wanted to add an Alarm with remote lock and unlock and a Bed Lid Lift system and Tail Gate lift set up. I want to have
accessories available in the Carpeted bed and lighting in the bed. I also wanted to install some real backup lights that are far better
for seeing behind you at night and present an unmistakably bright object for other cars when in reverse.
I wanted to make it so I could disconnect the engine wiring harness without ever turning a wrench. I wanted each light to have a
relay and to be able to let the alarm system disconnect the starter and ignition. I would design in Relays to give the lights and
accessories direct power from the battery eliminating GM's way of going through the switches in the dash. I also needed more than
the flex circuit on the back of the instrument cluster could offer in the way of adding custom gauges and lighting as well as some
information displays. So, I have many planned upgrades that would be a lot more difficult with a factory type of wiring harness. In
the end I think I would end up spending a lot more money and time and not end up with a job that was as safe and well done as this
way.
I'll try to show lots of photos when I get to the customizing and also the general wiring. Maybe my experiences can help someone
else and some of that is the reason for my project pages. Some of it is bragging and some is just writing down for my own record
what I did and what it took. Where I started and where it ended.
 |
I decided that I wanted this Elky to have the benefit of either a CD or a Cassette and then there is always music. I
didn't really want a CD changer though. I found that having a changer only means that you have the same old CD in
the changer most of the time. And then they become temperamental and don't like playing CDs. I wanted a decent
Stereo CD player that would play my home made CD and the store bought ones as well and I wanted something that fit
in pretty well to the interior look I was trying to get. I picked this Legacy Double Din Cassette / CD player. It was the
right performer for the right price. I'll have to modify the dash where the old stereo went but I think I can do it without
it looking crummy. I like the large displays available on the double din model receivers. I don't know what the remote is
all about but it comes with it anyway. I figure that 200 Wats is plenty of sound to fill the cabin area and still be easy to
listen to. If I did my picking well then I should be able to listen to a very clear crisp sound Sometimes, I don't use a
stereo while I am driving I listen to the engine or just enjoy the ride in moderate solitude therefore, top of the lines is
not necessary here.
I picked Legacy Component Speaker Systems for the front and back of this El Camino. I'll build in some enclosures to
the storage box behind the seats and use the wall space on the sides for some of the speakers. I've planned installing
two 8" or 10" sub woofers in the very back of the storage box but I am looking for an overall enclosure dimension that
doesn't take up most of the space in the box. The entire cabin area will be covered in a material that is the same as
Dynomat material so, I have no fear of noise problems and I can build enclosures to suit me. I also would like to use
that area, especially along the sides, to store some of the electronics used in the cabin, bed and sound system. I'd like
to end up only using 1/3 of that area so that I can dress up the rest and use it's capacity better. I will not be using a
curtain in this Elky I want it to show what is going on back there.
didn't really want a CD changer though. I found that having a changer only means that you have the same old CD in
the changer most of the time. And then they become temperamental and don't like playing CDs. I wanted a decent
Stereo CD player that would play my home made CD and the store bought ones as well and I wanted something that fit
in pretty well to the interior look I was trying to get. I picked this Legacy Double Din Cassette / CD player. It was the
right performer for the right price. I'll have to modify the dash where the old stereo went but I think I can do it without
it looking crummy. I like the large displays available on the double din model receivers. I don't know what the remote is
all about but it comes with it anyway. I figure that 200 Wats is plenty of sound to fill the cabin area and still be easy to
listen to. If I did my picking well then I should be able to listen to a very clear crisp sound Sometimes, I don't use a
stereo while I am driving I listen to the engine or just enjoy the ride in moderate solitude therefore, top of the lines is
not necessary here.
I picked Legacy Component Speaker Systems for the front and back of this El Camino. I'll build in some enclosures to
the storage box behind the seats and use the wall space on the sides for some of the speakers. I've planned installing
two 8" or 10" sub woofers in the very back of the storage box but I am looking for an overall enclosure dimension that
doesn't take up most of the space in the box. The entire cabin area will be covered in a material that is the same as
Dynomat material so, I have no fear of noise problems and I can build enclosures to suit me. I also would like to use
that area, especially along the sides, to store some of the electronics used in the cabin, bed and sound system. I'd like
to end up only using 1/3 of that area so that I can dress up the rest and use it's capacity better. I will not be using a
curtain in this Elky I want it to show what is going on back there.
 |
 |
So while I was planning the stereo, the one good thing about taking four or five years to complete a project, I realized that it would come in handy for me to have
something I could listen to outside the truck while sitting at shows or at home while polishing it. I figured that since I was going to enclose the bed and carpet it and
make a place for the spare and battery and tools I might as well put some speakers back there! So I'll build an enclosure back there with 2 12" Subs and more. Some
good output and its engaged or disengaged depending on if the bed lid is up or down. I'll have it on a switching relay so that when the bed lid lift is activated the
speakers in the cabin will shut off and the bed speakers will engage, with a manual override for shopping -yeah, like it will every be used for that!
something I could listen to outside the truck while sitting at shows or at home while polishing it. I figured that since I was going to enclose the bed and carpet it and
make a place for the spare and battery and tools I might as well put some speakers back there! So I'll build an enclosure back there with 2 12" Subs and more. Some
good output and its engaged or disengaged depending on if the bed lid is up or down. I'll have it on a switching relay so that when the bed lid lift is activated the
speakers in the cabin will shut off and the bed speakers will engage, with a manual override for shopping -yeah, like it will every be used for that!
 |
I've used the TG3 Universal Bed and Tailgate lift kit on this truck The kit comes with an emergency bypass kit so if the battery is down you can still get in the bed. In
my case this would be an absolute must since the battery is in the bed now, not under the hood. It consists of a hand operated cable that disengaged the lift. That will
be behind the passenger door in the cab. There is many routs I can use with the wiring. The bed will have more than just tailgate lifts and Stereo I've got lighting
planned and the main power cell for the truck will be relocated to the bed. The Topper will have wiring installed for lighting, I'll install some rope lighting around the
underside rim for effect and I'll hide some lights in the Work Center of the bed to give useful lighting to the things in the Bed. The "Work Center" in the bed will keep
the Spare Tire, the Jack and tire wrenches all in easy to pull out drawers, including the spare tire. Along with those things I'll build in a battery box with a Power
Distribution Center and some Fuses. I'll run extensions to the back or the front of the truck from the hot post in case I ever need to use jumper cables to start it or
give a jump. I don't expect that will ever be the case but, nothing ever goes as planned all the time. So, Just in case! The battery I decided to use will be a sealed
battery so I don't have the worries or problems with Acid Fumes being trapped and corroding up everything in the bed.
In my Work Center will be a manually operated work light or courtesy light as well as lighting for other areas in the bed that will come on at night or by turning them
on with the bed lid opening. I'll install some accent lighting in the work center for just accenting the Stereo at night time and there will be a manual bypass switch in
the Work Center for disconnecting the rear Stereo Speakers when needed and a master bypass for turning off all the electronics in the bed. The lifts are operated via a
switch in the Electronics Center in the Console inside the Cab and has some redundant lighting controls for the bed lights. I will also be able to open the lid and the tail
gate via a remote control on my key fob. This function is part of the Security system I'll be installing in the truck and will cover later on this page.
This El Camino has provisions for running wire on either side of the back and it has a plug on the storage box area where the harness can go through to the chassis.
For the necessary power I'll be taping that directly, for the most part, off the battery and the relays will be inside the storage box walls. This will make them easy to
get to if they ever need work or upgrades. I've planned to use doors, drawers and panels in a wall that will be built onto the sides, inside the storage area on either side.
The cross overs will also be kept there to easily get to them. When it is all over the entire area will be covered in silver gray and Royal Blue carpet. Most of the panels
and doors will not have knobs so they will blend in with the rest of the wall and shouldn't be all that noticeable.
my case this would be an absolute must since the battery is in the bed now, not under the hood. It consists of a hand operated cable that disengaged the lift. That will
be behind the passenger door in the cab. There is many routs I can use with the wiring. The bed will have more than just tailgate lifts and Stereo I've got lighting
planned and the main power cell for the truck will be relocated to the bed. The Topper will have wiring installed for lighting, I'll install some rope lighting around the
underside rim for effect and I'll hide some lights in the Work Center of the bed to give useful lighting to the things in the Bed. The "Work Center" in the bed will keep
the Spare Tire, the Jack and tire wrenches all in easy to pull out drawers, including the spare tire. Along with those things I'll build in a battery box with a Power
Distribution Center and some Fuses. I'll run extensions to the back or the front of the truck from the hot post in case I ever need to use jumper cables to start it or
give a jump. I don't expect that will ever be the case but, nothing ever goes as planned all the time. So, Just in case! The battery I decided to use will be a sealed
battery so I don't have the worries or problems with Acid Fumes being trapped and corroding up everything in the bed.
In my Work Center will be a manually operated work light or courtesy light as well as lighting for other areas in the bed that will come on at night or by turning them
on with the bed lid opening. I'll install some accent lighting in the work center for just accenting the Stereo at night time and there will be a manual bypass switch in
the Work Center for disconnecting the rear Stereo Speakers when needed and a master bypass for turning off all the electronics in the bed. The lifts are operated via a
switch in the Electronics Center in the Console inside the Cab and has some redundant lighting controls for the bed lights. I will also be able to open the lid and the tail
gate via a remote control on my key fob. This function is part of the Security system I'll be installing in the truck and will cover later on this page.
This El Camino has provisions for running wire on either side of the back and it has a plug on the storage box area where the harness can go through to the chassis.
For the necessary power I'll be taping that directly, for the most part, off the battery and the relays will be inside the storage box walls. This will make them easy to
get to if they ever need work or upgrades. I've planned to use doors, drawers and panels in a wall that will be built onto the sides, inside the storage area on either side.
The cross overs will also be kept there to easily get to them. When it is all over the entire area will be covered in silver gray and Royal Blue carpet. Most of the panels
and doors will not have knobs so they will blend in with the rest of the wall and shouldn't be all that noticeable.
 |
With all the devices and actual cost of this project I certainly want to make sure it is as protected as I cam make it, when I am away
from it, "If I ever am away from it!" I've purchased a very good alarm system with multiple device monitoring and / or control, shock
sensors.
Programmable 6002 Alarm with Keyless Entry
* Keyless entry uses transmitter to lock/unlock existing power door locks
* Includes two 4-button transmitters with separate buttons for specific features to simplify operation
Auto Alarm:
Dual-stage shock sensor delivers a warning sound when a light tap is detected and triggers the alarm if warning is unheeded (sensor is
adjustable by remote).
Current sensor detects when dome, courtesy, hood or trunk light goes on.
Uses existing door, hood or trunk switches and triggers alarm during forced entry.
Instant panic protection located on remote.
Remote car finder.
Instant door trigger protection - alarm sounds if any door is opened while alarm is active.
Parking light confirmation - parking lights will flash continuously if alarm is triggered.
Lights will flash once when alarm is activated and twice when alarm is de-activated.
Ignition-controlled door locks. Doors automatically lock when ignition is started and unlock when ignition is turned off.
Remote trunk release - remote transmitter opens trunk with the push of a button.
Dome light supervision - dome light comes on for safety when alarm is disarmed.
6-tone 126 dB siren. Plug-in LED acts as a visual deterrent.
Passive arming - system can be wired to arm/disarm automatically when ignition is turned on and off.
Starter kill disables starter to prevent any unauthorized person from driving vehicle.
Negative input for easy installation of additional sensors.
Built-in battery backup.
Installation should be simple. I'll install this while I am installing the Painless Wiring Harness in the truck. I get not only a good
security system but this adds features that I was looking at paying for anyway. I like having the dome light on and off with the
ignition, I like the automatic door locking with ignition on and I like the park lights on after arming. I have wanted to upgrade the
functions on the truck while I was putting it back together. Planning them into the new harness before installation is the easiest way
possible.
from it, "If I ever am away from it!" I've purchased a very good alarm system with multiple device monitoring and / or control, shock
sensors.
Programmable 6002 Alarm with Keyless Entry
* Keyless entry uses transmitter to lock/unlock existing power door locks
* Includes two 4-button transmitters with separate buttons for specific features to simplify operation
Auto Alarm:
Dual-stage shock sensor delivers a warning sound when a light tap is detected and triggers the alarm if warning is unheeded (sensor is
adjustable by remote).
Current sensor detects when dome, courtesy, hood or trunk light goes on.
Uses existing door, hood or trunk switches and triggers alarm during forced entry.
Instant panic protection located on remote.
Remote car finder.
Instant door trigger protection - alarm sounds if any door is opened while alarm is active.
Parking light confirmation - parking lights will flash continuously if alarm is triggered.
Lights will flash once when alarm is activated and twice when alarm is de-activated.
Ignition-controlled door locks. Doors automatically lock when ignition is started and unlock when ignition is turned off.
Remote trunk release - remote transmitter opens trunk with the push of a button.
Dome light supervision - dome light comes on for safety when alarm is disarmed.
6-tone 126 dB siren. Plug-in LED acts as a visual deterrent.
Passive arming - system can be wired to arm/disarm automatically when ignition is turned on and off.
Starter kill disables starter to prevent any unauthorized person from driving vehicle.
Negative input for easy installation of additional sensors.
Built-in battery backup.
Installation should be simple. I'll install this while I am installing the Painless Wiring Harness in the truck. I get not only a good
security system but this adds features that I was looking at paying for anyway. I like having the dome light on and off with the
ignition, I like the automatic door locking with ignition on and I like the park lights on after arming. I have wanted to upgrade the
functions on the truck while I was putting it back together. Planning them into the new harness before installation is the easiest way
possible.
 |
I want things to be as easy and simple as possible, for me. So I have always wanted to be able to just unplug the engine and pull it when I need or want to so, I sat out
with that goal in mind. I started with trying to plan out each harness. This way I could see if I've covered each system for this project and add in the custom
electronics. Starting with a fresh new wiring harness it is a simple matter of having all the wires routed to a central location and adding a plug. I decided to use a
weather proof connector. I found some of the ones I wanted that were made by MSD and didn't force you to by some special tool for a once time use. I'll use some
Convoluted tubing designed for hiding wires and I'll color code the harness for dress up purposes. I will be able to take my time and get the routing not only to where
I want or need it but do it with some style.
with that goal in mind. I started with trying to plan out each harness. This way I could see if I've covered each system for this project and add in the custom
electronics. Starting with a fresh new wiring harness it is a simple matter of having all the wires routed to a central location and adding a plug. I decided to use a
weather proof connector. I found some of the ones I wanted that were made by MSD and didn't force you to by some special tool for a once time use. I'll use some
Convoluted tubing designed for hiding wires and I'll color code the harness for dress up purposes. I will be able to take my time and get the routing not only to where
I want or need it but do it with some style.
From where it stands now, I'll need to make a harness for the Console, I'll need one for the bed electronics, the bed audio works,
the cabin audio works, the dash bundle and the engine bundle. I am also considering a last bundle as lighting effects and
accessories. The last well, its not all that solid of an ides at this time but just in case I have tossed around lighting under the hood
and under the truck.
the cabin audio works, the dash bundle and the engine bundle. I am also considering a last bundle as lighting effects and
accessories. The last well, its not all that solid of an ides at this time but just in case I have tossed around lighting under the hood
and under the truck.
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