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When I first got this truck it was a blank piece of slate, so-to-speak. I had no idea just yet what
I would do to it, how I would fix it other than knowing I was going to need an engine and it
needed some minor body work. The original interior has the Sport Gage Package, Tan or Saddle
interior, AM/FM Stereo Cassette Player vinyl covered Bench seats and it has a sun roof. The
carpet looked very dirty and looked like the Sun Roof had a leak. The Front Windshield was
broken but for the most part intact. It had crank windows with no other electronic devises like
door locks or any type of alarm system. This really wasn't a big shock, I think that the truck
had been sitting for about 8 years since it last ran.
I wanted to look at what was available both for the outside and for the interior. I have some
experience built up with El Camino restoration and I've seen some of what others have done. Up
to now, this model was not my target generation so I was still naive about the options available
to me. So when needing source information and thankfully pictures also, I went to the internet.
I started looking at what suppliers had as far as body upgrades and interior pieces. After dealing
with the 1976 El Camino, I didn't know how hard it would be to get parts. Parts for the 76 Elky
was scarce at best and very expensive.
I would do to it, how I would fix it other than knowing I was going to need an engine and it
needed some minor body work. The original interior has the Sport Gage Package, Tan or Saddle
interior, AM/FM Stereo Cassette Player vinyl covered Bench seats and it has a sun roof. The
carpet looked very dirty and looked like the Sun Roof had a leak. The Front Windshield was
broken but for the most part intact. It had crank windows with no other electronic devises like
door locks or any type of alarm system. This really wasn't a big shock, I think that the truck
had been sitting for about 8 years since it last ran.
I wanted to look at what was available both for the outside and for the interior. I have some
experience built up with El Camino restoration and I've seen some of what others have done. Up
to now, this model was not my target generation so I was still naive about the options available
to me. So when needing source information and thankfully pictures also, I went to the internet.
I started looking at what suppliers had as far as body upgrades and interior pieces. After dealing
with the 1976 El Camino, I didn't know how hard it would be to get parts. Parts for the 76 Elky
was scarce at best and very expensive.
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| Click on Image to see larger picture. |
I have made up my mind, for now, that the inside would be Silver Gray and Royal Blue. This will go well with the Coarse Blasberry
Blue Chromalusion outside and it is easy to maintain. I have the Silver Gray color in a '93 Silverado Extended Cab Style Side. I'll install
FloFit Bucket seats in this Extreme SS Version Elky. I plan on replacing the window regulators with electric motors. I want to also
install electric Door Opening and Locks although, I am not going to remove the handles from the doors. I'll add a remote opener and
alarm and push buttons on the inside to operate the doors, locks and windows. The headliner and the visors need to be recovered
anyway. Lauren Engineering makes or stocks all the plastic parts for this year range (78 - 87) interior, so the interior will be the
simplest part - Hopefully!
Upon removing everything from the inside I discovered that not only had the Sun Roof been leaking the carpet had a thick rubber
backing so it held water. I had a pool breeding Mosquitos behind the seat. I also found pieces and parts to a different dash cluster
some hub caps and lots of sun bleached cracked plastic. Once I got everything out it was, surprisingly, moderately rust free. No big
holes or cancerous spots just some normal oxidizing and surface rust from where the old finish had worn out.
Blue Chromalusion outside and it is easy to maintain. I have the Silver Gray color in a '93 Silverado Extended Cab Style Side. I'll install
FloFit Bucket seats in this Extreme SS Version Elky. I plan on replacing the window regulators with electric motors. I want to also
install electric Door Opening and Locks although, I am not going to remove the handles from the doors. I'll add a remote opener and
alarm and push buttons on the inside to operate the doors, locks and windows. The headliner and the visors need to be recovered
anyway. Lauren Engineering makes or stocks all the plastic parts for this year range (78 - 87) interior, so the interior will be the
simplest part - Hopefully!
Upon removing everything from the inside I discovered that not only had the Sun Roof been leaking the carpet had a thick rubber
backing so it held water. I had a pool breeding Mosquitos behind the seat. I also found pieces and parts to a different dash cluster
some hub caps and lots of sun bleached cracked plastic. Once I got everything out it was, surprisingly, moderately rust free. No big
holes or cancerous spots just some normal oxidizing and surface rust from where the old finish had worn out.
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I ordered the seats and Interior from Honest Charley's Custom Classics along with the Interior parts, Dash Cap and the bed carpet. I got the Window kits and door
locks from A1 Electric and the sound deadening material, insulation and the alarm system from J. C. Whitney. I'll order the windshield from a company locally. For
the Stereo /Sound System, I considered many options, each one different in how it would install and how much it would cost. This will have to be custom and it will
have to look good, professional actually, if I am going to achieve a Gold Class Customization. I will build some custom enclosure for the storage compartment with
dual woofers, dual midrange and some Pizo Tweeters. The Midrange and tweeters will be slightly forward from the boxed sub woofers. For the front I will install
some midrange down low and use the space for the factory speakers for the tweeters. The head unit will be AM /FM (Maybe XM) CD/CD-R/CD-RW/MP3 player
with a controller and in the back will be a 5 disk CD changer.
locks from A1 Electric and the sound deadening material, insulation and the alarm system from J. C. Whitney. I'll order the windshield from a company locally. For
the Stereo /Sound System, I considered many options, each one different in how it would install and how much it would cost. This will have to be custom and it will
have to look good, professional actually, if I am going to achieve a Gold Class Customization. I will build some custom enclosure for the storage compartment with
dual woofers, dual midrange and some Pizo Tweeters. The Midrange and tweeters will be slightly forward from the boxed sub woofers. For the front I will install
some midrange down low and use the space for the factory speakers for the tweeters. The head unit will be AM /FM (Maybe XM) CD/CD-R/CD-RW/MP3 player
with a controller and in the back will be a 5 disk CD changer.
The new bucket seats have a center jump seat / storage compartment and cup holder. I am not going to use that in this truck. I will design and build a custom console
for this truck that will have the electronics in it for most of the truck. When I get a little more closer to putting it all in I'll have more specifics about its looks. I plan on
it going from under the dash, covering the floor vent, going all the way back to the storage compartment. It will re-vent the floor air, house the electronics for the bed
lid, door locks, lights, and hood popper as well as any other device I wish to control from the inside. It will be trimmed in carpet but not covered. I'll make it from
plastic hopefully and use some soft vinyl or leather for accents / trim and possibly walnut or oak finished top. In doing this, I'll have to fabricate a new set of mounts
for the seats, these mount like a bench seats when you first get them from factory.
I'll be using the storage area for sound and other devices so I'll not be able to use that for the spare tire or the jack. I'll re-locate those to the bed and I'll cover that
later. I'll insulate the back cab quarter wall and maybe use some walnut or Oak vernier to trim it out, we'll see how this turns out. The entire cab and storage
compartment will be completely covered in sound deadening panels and then as much as possible heat barrier insulation will be laid on top of that then carpet where
used. I'll clean and sand the cab interior and veriprime then reseal all the joints that needs it, with seam sealer and lay down a coat of sealing primer. This will assure,
as best as possible, that the cab is not going to rot again under all the new stuff and the ride will be as comfortable as it looks.
I'll be installing new electric window motors, tracks, switches and wiring and rebuilding any other left over parts so I shouldn't have any rattles from there. New door
seals have been ordered and received from Soft Seal and I have purchased new window felts. I have new lower plastic door panels and new upper door panels. The
lower door panels will have to be colored but the uppers were ordered in the correct color, Royal Blue. The bottom plastic door pieces will be colored in silver gray
with all the other plastic parts.
The dash will get a full cap and will be colored Silver Gray as well. I'll be completely rebuilding the Gage Cluster for the truck. I've got AutoMeter 3 1/8th"
Speedometer (0-140 Mph) and 3 1/8th" Tachometer to take the place of the old 0-80 speedometer and the clock. I have been tossing around using the indicator lights
on the side of the cluster for custom indicators. I can have several it has the space for them all and more but for now that is just a thought. I'll remove the gear shift
from the steering column, actually I'll buy a different one from a wrecking yard without the shifter attached. I want it to be from an 87 or so Monty or something like
that. I don't want to have to worry about fit or looks. I'll refinish that in Silver Gray also.
for this truck that will have the electronics in it for most of the truck. When I get a little more closer to putting it all in I'll have more specifics about its looks. I plan on
it going from under the dash, covering the floor vent, going all the way back to the storage compartment. It will re-vent the floor air, house the electronics for the bed
lid, door locks, lights, and hood popper as well as any other device I wish to control from the inside. It will be trimmed in carpet but not covered. I'll make it from
plastic hopefully and use some soft vinyl or leather for accents / trim and possibly walnut or oak finished top. In doing this, I'll have to fabricate a new set of mounts
for the seats, these mount like a bench seats when you first get them from factory.
I'll be using the storage area for sound and other devices so I'll not be able to use that for the spare tire or the jack. I'll re-locate those to the bed and I'll cover that
later. I'll insulate the back cab quarter wall and maybe use some walnut or Oak vernier to trim it out, we'll see how this turns out. The entire cab and storage
compartment will be completely covered in sound deadening panels and then as much as possible heat barrier insulation will be laid on top of that then carpet where
used. I'll clean and sand the cab interior and veriprime then reseal all the joints that needs it, with seam sealer and lay down a coat of sealing primer. This will assure,
as best as possible, that the cab is not going to rot again under all the new stuff and the ride will be as comfortable as it looks.
I'll be installing new electric window motors, tracks, switches and wiring and rebuilding any other left over parts so I shouldn't have any rattles from there. New door
seals have been ordered and received from Soft Seal and I have purchased new window felts. I have new lower plastic door panels and new upper door panels. The
lower door panels will have to be colored but the uppers were ordered in the correct color, Royal Blue. The bottom plastic door pieces will be colored in silver gray
with all the other plastic parts.
The dash will get a full cap and will be colored Silver Gray as well. I'll be completely rebuilding the Gage Cluster for the truck. I've got AutoMeter 3 1/8th"
Speedometer (0-140 Mph) and 3 1/8th" Tachometer to take the place of the old 0-80 speedometer and the clock. I have been tossing around using the indicator lights
on the side of the cluster for custom indicators. I can have several it has the space for them all and more but for now that is just a thought. I'll remove the gear shift
from the steering column, actually I'll buy a different one from a wrecking yard without the shifter attached. I want it to be from an 87 or so Monty or something like
that. I don't want to have to worry about fit or looks. I'll refinish that in Silver Gray also.
 |
After completely sealing the inside of the cab with Primer Sealer I had purchased some sound and vibration deadening
material from J.C. Whitney. As a matter of fact I got enough to completely cover the inside of the cab and inside the
door skins with this stuff. I will lay this stuff down everywhere it has a sticky backing so that you don't have to use any
contact cement. Once that has been done then I'll set the seats inside the truck to get a handle on how they will
eventually mount and sit in it. I'll make any "New" holes at that point. I'll use marking compound after I get the inside
mounting holes set and drilled so that I can lay down the padding and mark the place for the seat belts and any holes that
bolts need to go through. I've been here before when I was fixing up the 76 Elky. I completely gutted it's interior and
redid it. So, I know about what I am "fixing to" have to go through and where I made the mistakes on the 76 I can avoid
them with this one. This "Double Wrap" with the sound deadening mats and the insulation / padding will assure as quiet a
ride as possible. On the fire wall I'll double the deadening mats to help block out the sound that will be coming from the
engine compartment and the headers. I should be able to cruise down the highway at 75 or so and still be able to listen
comfortably to the stereo system.
material from J.C. Whitney. As a matter of fact I got enough to completely cover the inside of the cab and inside the
door skins with this stuff. I will lay this stuff down everywhere it has a sticky backing so that you don't have to use any
contact cement. Once that has been done then I'll set the seats inside the truck to get a handle on how they will
eventually mount and sit in it. I'll make any "New" holes at that point. I'll use marking compound after I get the inside
mounting holes set and drilled so that I can lay down the padding and mark the place for the seat belts and any holes that
bolts need to go through. I've been here before when I was fixing up the 76 Elky. I completely gutted it's interior and
redid it. So, I know about what I am "fixing to" have to go through and where I made the mistakes on the 76 I can avoid
them with this one. This "Double Wrap" with the sound deadening mats and the insulation / padding will assure as quiet a
ride as possible. On the fire wall I'll double the deadening mats to help block out the sound that will be coming from the
engine compartment and the headers. I should be able to cruise down the highway at 75 or so and still be able to listen
comfortably to the stereo system.
Its been some months since I have got a chance to do some work on the 80 but around February 2005, I started
lying out the vibration dampening material in preparation of applying it to the metal. This will be the foundation for the
interior and sound system for the cabin of the truck. This marks the first steps in this portion of the truck for
re-assembly. Its now going back together, officially. I had to do some house cleaning first but I did want the material
to relax some it was a cool day out so the stuff was stiff. I started where I had left off with the DuPont Vibration
pads. I had started this endeavor (the cabin) about a year ago and had to completely back off for a year or more.
This will be the 80's 25th Birthday, this year and I hope to complete it this year. In cold weather this tar or asphalt
material is not really cooperative without some heat. I used a hair dryer and a seam roller to press it in against the
finished surface. Once it reaches about 75 or 80 F temp it starts to be very malleable and takes little effort to lay
down the biggest task is cutting it. This stuff has a plastic barrier backing that is pretty tough as well as being
primarily made like a house tar shingle it's tough to cut, doesn't matter what I used. The next day the weather got
colder and was starting to rain. I was basically working outside under shelter but with the temps bing what they were
it was useless to attempt to lay most down until the weather got better. So it sat another few weeks.
lying out the vibration dampening material in preparation of applying it to the metal. This will be the foundation for the
interior and sound system for the cabin of the truck. This marks the first steps in this portion of the truck for
re-assembly. Its now going back together, officially. I had to do some house cleaning first but I did want the material
to relax some it was a cool day out so the stuff was stiff. I started where I had left off with the DuPont Vibration
pads. I had started this endeavor (the cabin) about a year ago and had to completely back off for a year or more.
This will be the 80's 25th Birthday, this year and I hope to complete it this year. In cold weather this tar or asphalt
material is not really cooperative without some heat. I used a hair dryer and a seam roller to press it in against the
finished surface. Once it reaches about 75 or 80 F temp it starts to be very malleable and takes little effort to lay
down the biggest task is cutting it. This stuff has a plastic barrier backing that is pretty tough as well as being
primarily made like a house tar shingle it's tough to cut, doesn't matter what I used. The next day the weather got
colder and was starting to rain. I was basically working outside under shelter but with the temps bing what they were
it was useless to attempt to lay most down until the weather got better. So it sat another few weeks.
| Minor Surface Rust and Oxidation |
Once I have completed the vibration barrier I'll be installing a heat barrier, it's Reflective Mylar backed Jute
Padding that is Fire Retardant material and it resists molds and provides a great moisture barrier too! I'll
finish up the seams with aluminum tape. This stuff sticks to the reflective backing perfectly and sticks to
exposed metal surfaces perfectly, sealing those off as well. I am not looking to seal off completely the
inside but I would like to make it as quiet as possible when I am cruising on the highway, when and if I
do. These steps are the base or foundation to make that happen for me.
Padding that is Fire Retardant material and it resists molds and provides a great moisture barrier too! I'll
finish up the seams with aluminum tape. This stuff sticks to the reflective backing perfectly and sticks to
exposed metal surfaces perfectly, sealing those off as well. I am not looking to seal off completely the
inside but I would like to make it as quiet as possible when I am cruising on the highway, when and if I
do. These steps are the base or foundation to make that happen for me.
This time of the year, here in Texas, anything can happen so you take the good with the bad, when it
comes! It is the first of March and I have managed to get in a couple of days here and there to actually
work on the 80 and for now I have completed the sound dampening material installation on the entire
driver side floor, firewall and part of the storage compartment behind the seats. I have only the top portion
of the storage box and half the back wall left and that will be complete to the rear window. I am also using
the sound dampening material on the back cabin wall under the rear window. I'm trying really hard to
"leave no stones unturned" in this part of the project. As I mentioned, it's essential to the acoustics of the
vehicle and of course, comfort, to have a foundation of this stuff with the Insulating / shielding padding to
complement it. When I am in this little baby. I'll be able to talk to someone or listen to tunes or just be able
to turn it all off, a favorite way of mine to drive, and not be overwhelmed by the noise of the engine and
the vibrations of the road. So, now all I have left to do is wait for another favorable day or two and I'll
have be completely finished with this step of the project and be able to move towards another portion of
the interior, the mounting of the New Bucket Seats. After I complete the sound dampening material then
I'll start fabricating the mounts for the custom Buckets!
comes! It is the first of March and I have managed to get in a couple of days here and there to actually
work on the 80 and for now I have completed the sound dampening material installation on the entire
driver side floor, firewall and part of the storage compartment behind the seats. I have only the top portion
of the storage box and half the back wall left and that will be complete to the rear window. I am also using
the sound dampening material on the back cabin wall under the rear window. I'm trying really hard to
"leave no stones unturned" in this part of the project. As I mentioned, it's essential to the acoustics of the
vehicle and of course, comfort, to have a foundation of this stuff with the Insulating / shielding padding to
complement it. When I am in this little baby. I'll be able to talk to someone or listen to tunes or just be able
to turn it all off, a favorite way of mine to drive, and not be overwhelmed by the noise of the engine and
the vibrations of the road. So, now all I have left to do is wait for another favorable day or two and I'll
have be completely finished with this step of the project and be able to move towards another portion of
the interior, the mounting of the New Bucket Seats. After I complete the sound dampening material then
I'll start fabricating the mounts for the custom Buckets!
Its now March 6th and the wrapping of the interior with the sound dampening mats is 80% complete. I have only
the cabin top, the doors and one or two small areas left to cover. Its a good thing too because I am about to run
out of material. I have just about enough left to do what has to be done. The really fun part was putting that stuff
on the top underside of the storage box. It was in the mid to upper 50s most of the time I was doing all this it is,
after all, still winter time but it is starting to get warm enough to really do some work. After today I'd have to say
it was about the right temp and with no sunshine out it kept me from over heating. I did manage to brake a sweat
for most of the day and I was outside all the time. I took me some gloves with me this time. Last time I ended up
with some serious blisters from rubbing on the mats to fix them to the metal surfaces. I could have done a better
job had it been around 70 or more outside and the sun out. I could have laid the material out in the sunlight it is
black and would have relaxed really well. But not this year! "El Ninio" has moved in so its rainy and cloudy and
dreary. But that is not a challenge for me this year! I am going to finish up this project this year and before the
end of this summer so I can attend Baytown Super Chevy Show this year if its at all possible. I want to be seen in
this and above all I want to be finished with it. I have been playing with this project long enough. So far I have
used five sheets of the mats doing the inside and have two left for the doors. Its important to also get the door
skins. They're very thin and very hallow so the sound they do pick up, which is everything, is amplified before it
makes it way through the door plastic. GM used a spray on deadening on the skins originally. Their coverage was
minimal mine conversely will be complete and excess left over will be used other places in the doors. GM also
used a padding to shield and insulate the doors further. I will also use a padding for the same effects only with the
additional coverage inside my way will be better.
I completed laying down the Sound Dampening Mats Saturday, March 19 a day before Spring starts. Spring in
Texas is already in the air. The birds are back with their noisy selves in the mornings and I am looking forward to
moving forward with the 80's re-assembly. I originally purchased 7 sheets of the material to lay down. Add that
to the DuPont material I had started with, for a grand total of around 8 sheets. It's a little more than $200.00
worth of material and I am not finished yet. I have to skip through assembly but I'll be back to lay out the Jute
Padding once the seat brackets are made and the Wiring is laid out.
the cabin top, the doors and one or two small areas left to cover. Its a good thing too because I am about to run
out of material. I have just about enough left to do what has to be done. The really fun part was putting that stuff
on the top underside of the storage box. It was in the mid to upper 50s most of the time I was doing all this it is,
after all, still winter time but it is starting to get warm enough to really do some work. After today I'd have to say
it was about the right temp and with no sunshine out it kept me from over heating. I did manage to brake a sweat
for most of the day and I was outside all the time. I took me some gloves with me this time. Last time I ended up
with some serious blisters from rubbing on the mats to fix them to the metal surfaces. I could have done a better
job had it been around 70 or more outside and the sun out. I could have laid the material out in the sunlight it is
black and would have relaxed really well. But not this year! "El Ninio" has moved in so its rainy and cloudy and
dreary. But that is not a challenge for me this year! I am going to finish up this project this year and before the
end of this summer so I can attend Baytown Super Chevy Show this year if its at all possible. I want to be seen in
this and above all I want to be finished with it. I have been playing with this project long enough. So far I have
used five sheets of the mats doing the inside and have two left for the doors. Its important to also get the door
skins. They're very thin and very hallow so the sound they do pick up, which is everything, is amplified before it
makes it way through the door plastic. GM used a spray on deadening on the skins originally. Their coverage was
minimal mine conversely will be complete and excess left over will be used other places in the doors. GM also
used a padding to shield and insulate the doors further. I will also use a padding for the same effects only with the
additional coverage inside my way will be better.
I completed laying down the Sound Dampening Mats Saturday, March 19 a day before Spring starts. Spring in
Texas is already in the air. The birds are back with their noisy selves in the mornings and I am looking forward to
moving forward with the 80's re-assembly. I originally purchased 7 sheets of the material to lay down. Add that
to the DuPont material I had started with, for a grand total of around 8 sheets. It's a little more than $200.00
worth of material and I am not finished yet. I have to skip through assembly but I'll be back to lay out the Jute
Padding once the seat brackets are made and the Wiring is laid out.
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Where to start?!? My plan is to take the bucket seats and some blocks of varying sizes and “Dry Fit” the seats for position front to back and side to side. Once I like
their placement then I’ll start working on the height they’ll need to be. I am guessing at this point I’ll need as much head room as possible. This El Camino has a Sun
Roof which will steal some of the space that is normally vacant. I am also going to see if I have enough padding to pad under the headliner for further noise abatement.
After I establish the seats positions and heights I’ll determine if I’ll keep the factory hardware mounts. I’ll want the seats to have a slight front to back tilt or “bucket”
feel to them. My goal there is to make sure the seat has that position at every point of its travel. So, I want the mount legs to be level front to back. Considering the
contour of the floor boards this is not going to be the simplest thing I have ever done. I do not want the angle to be part of the base mounts. If I did this it would make
the seat’s angle different in the rear most position as opposed to the front position.
their placement then I’ll start working on the height they’ll need to be. I am guessing at this point I’ll need as much head room as possible. This El Camino has a Sun
Roof which will steal some of the space that is normally vacant. I am also going to see if I have enough padding to pad under the headliner for further noise abatement.
After I establish the seats positions and heights I’ll determine if I’ll keep the factory hardware mounts. I’ll want the seats to have a slight front to back tilt or “bucket”
feel to them. My goal there is to make sure the seat has that position at every point of its travel. So, I want the mount legs to be level front to back. Considering the
contour of the floor boards this is not going to be the simplest thing I have ever done. I do not want the angle to be part of the base mounts. If I did this it would make
the seat’s angle different in the rear most position as opposed to the front position.
I’m using 3/16th" thick X 1" wide, Cold Rolled Strap Iron, I got from Home Depot. I used this same stuff when I built the
mount for the 76 El Camino. I can’t really fashion the ones for this truck from the one’s I made for the 76. The seats will
mount completely different on this one. For one, they’ll be mounted separately or independent of each other. In the 76 I left
on the base the seats came on and used that for a mount. That way I could mount it just like the original bench seat. I want
these to have a Console between them so they’ll be separated from the manufacturer’s base mount. I’ll also have to cut part
of it away from the seat adjusters; they are welded on to the base mount.
I want the seats to be no more than 2” off the floor board with carpet and padding installed. That would be the bottom edge
of the seats to be no more than 2” off the deck. This will give me enough room for my hands to go under them while cleaning
and make them low enough overall so that I have the necessary head room while sitting. I'll also use this time once the seats
are dry fitted to approximate the location of the Floor Shifter so I can drill my hole for the cable to come through the tunnel.
I'll take a few measurements while the seats are in to give me an idea of how much space I'll have for the console. I want it to
follow trough all the way into the Smuggler's box / Storage Area.
mount for the 76 El Camino. I can’t really fashion the ones for this truck from the one’s I made for the 76. The seats will
mount completely different on this one. For one, they’ll be mounted separately or independent of each other. In the 76 I left
on the base the seats came on and used that for a mount. That way I could mount it just like the original bench seat. I want
these to have a Console between them so they’ll be separated from the manufacturer’s base mount. I’ll also have to cut part
of it away from the seat adjusters; they are welded on to the base mount.
I want the seats to be no more than 2” off the floor board with carpet and padding installed. That would be the bottom edge
of the seats to be no more than 2” off the deck. This will give me enough room for my hands to go under them while cleaning
and make them low enough overall so that I have the necessary head room while sitting. I'll also use this time once the seats
are dry fitted to approximate the location of the Floor Shifter so I can drill my hole for the cable to come through the tunnel.
I'll take a few measurements while the seats are in to give me an idea of how much space I'll have for the console. I want it to
follow trough all the way into the Smuggler's box / Storage Area.
I decided to start with making some wire frame (Coat Hanger Wire) to get and idea as
to how high, length, floor contour and span. This, I felt gave me a starting point as to
what the "legs" of the mount were going to have to look like also from Left to Right
hight. One side would be taller than the other by the fact that the outside mounts were
going int he stock location and that was on a cross brace that raised that mount point
up about 1" off the floor pan to start with. Once again using the stock location as a
starting point, I determined that to look right, it would have to be as long, front to
back, as the mount going onto the stock mount points. I felt that I could get close as
possible with their individual heights then shim as necessary them to a level left to right
hight. My one mistake was only making a wire frame template on the driver side floor
pan.
to how high, length, floor contour and span. This, I felt gave me a starting point as to
what the "legs" of the mount were going to have to look like also from Left to Right
hight. One side would be taller than the other by the fact that the outside mounts were
going int he stock location and that was on a cross brace that raised that mount point
up about 1" off the floor pan to start with. Once again using the stock location as a
starting point, I determined that to look right, it would have to be as long, front to
back, as the mount going onto the stock mount points. I felt that I could get close as
possible with their individual heights then shim as necessary them to a level left to right
hight. My one mistake was only making a wire frame template on the driver side floor
pan.
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Once I had a rough wire frame made I measured the distance between each bolt on the bottom of the seat that was use to
mount them and then the distance between length wise. I had 11" front to back for the holes and they had to be 8" apart left to
right. I made some preliminary measurements of the wire frame and found that they were not 11" front to back. I was
roughly 1" to just over 1" short.
I had purchased my strap steel for the frame at Home Depot. They have an assortment of varying widths and length. I made
the feet 1", the hight of the outside legs 1" and the inside front legs were 3" high and the back inside legs were just under 4". It
is not all that easy doing this because the floor pans are not symmetrical left to right or front to back. I made the cuts of steel,
then using one very large bench vice and a very heavy small sledge hammer, I set about bending the legs. I built two identical
sets, for the left and right seats. After dry fitting them I soon realized my mistake on the passenger side floor pan. The
Catalytic Converter hump!
mount them and then the distance between length wise. I had 11" front to back for the holes and they had to be 8" apart left to
right. I made some preliminary measurements of the wire frame and found that they were not 11" front to back. I was
roughly 1" to just over 1" short.
I had purchased my strap steel for the frame at Home Depot. They have an assortment of varying widths and length. I made
the feet 1", the hight of the outside legs 1" and the inside front legs were 3" high and the back inside legs were just under 4". It
is not all that easy doing this because the floor pans are not symmetrical left to right or front to back. I made the cuts of steel,
then using one very large bench vice and a very heavy small sledge hammer, I set about bending the legs. I built two identical
sets, for the left and right seats. After dry fitting them I soon realized my mistake on the passenger side floor pan. The
Catalytic Converter hump!
The passenger side of the car is where GM put the Cat, they dimpled the floor pan to try, I guess, to get it as far from the ground as possible or get it out of sight but
no matter the reason it was a force to be reckoned with! I decided to hang loose and wait until after the mounts were fabricated before I'd attempt adjustments. Most
of this is going to be covered by the seats and the carpet so if it looks a little different, its not a show stopper. I took them to the garage and we welded them together
making sure the box was square at least. Then to give a little more length I used a 8.5" long piece and welded that to the rear most cross brace. This gave me my final
length of 11" front to back for the bolts on the seats. I drilled the holes for the floor bolts and then the ones for the seats. I had to do a little minor adjusting here and
there but basically they fit fine. So, I painted them semi-gloss black like most stock metal brackets in a car. Then I took them ad fitted them to the floor board.
I had that one leg I knew I'd have to modify for the catalytic converter hump but basically that was also it and when that was finished and I was satisfied with their
locations and how they sat in the floor I drilled for the inside bolt holes on both sides. Once the mounts were firm against the floor I took the seats off the factory
mount. I sat them in place and they fit pretty well, I was feeling like I was getting close. I sat them in and adjusted them by using the washers that came with the seats
as shims to get the final left and right level and front to back "Bucket" tilt angle set. They might not be perfect but you can't tell it by sitting in the seats! Once I had the
seats firmly mounts and all the hight and angles set I sat down in the Elky. I had put the dash in place so I could move to the next step which was measuring for and
building the custom console for this baby. With the dash in and the seats mounted it was starting to look like something more than it has been and almost made me
want to leave them in but I wasn't ready for that just yet and wasn't going to be for a while.
no matter the reason it was a force to be reckoned with! I decided to hang loose and wait until after the mounts were fabricated before I'd attempt adjustments. Most
of this is going to be covered by the seats and the carpet so if it looks a little different, its not a show stopper. I took them to the garage and we welded them together
making sure the box was square at least. Then to give a little more length I used a 8.5" long piece and welded that to the rear most cross brace. This gave me my final
length of 11" front to back for the bolts on the seats. I drilled the holes for the floor bolts and then the ones for the seats. I had to do a little minor adjusting here and
there but basically they fit fine. So, I painted them semi-gloss black like most stock metal brackets in a car. Then I took them ad fitted them to the floor board.
I had that one leg I knew I'd have to modify for the catalytic converter hump but basically that was also it and when that was finished and I was satisfied with their
locations and how they sat in the floor I drilled for the inside bolt holes on both sides. Once the mounts were firm against the floor I took the seats off the factory
mount. I sat them in place and they fit pretty well, I was feeling like I was getting close. I sat them in and adjusted them by using the washers that came with the seats
as shims to get the final left and right level and front to back "Bucket" tilt angle set. They might not be perfect but you can't tell it by sitting in the seats! Once I had the
seats firmly mounts and all the hight and angles set I sat down in the Elky. I had put the dash in place so I could move to the next step which was measuring for and
building the custom console for this baby. With the dash in and the seats mounted it was starting to look like something more than it has been and almost made me
want to leave them in but I wasn't ready for that just yet and wasn't going to be for a while.
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I could have elected to purchase a Factory type console for this beauty and it would have fitted well and looked good but it would look factory, which is not bad it's
just not what I had in mind when I got started. So, I researched the net looking for examples and I really didn't find any. I figured I was on my own but I had ideas on
what steps I might need to go through to get what I wanted for the Elky. I tossed around several ideas for materials to build it from. I thought about wood and
thought about getting one from a wrecked car in a junk yard. Wood in my mind is more like a conversion truck and I wasn't looking for that with this project. I
wanted all out custom. We decided on a fiberglass console that was paintable and I could inlay some Mahogany or Pecan, like a more expensive European car.
just not what I had in mind when I got started. So, I researched the net looking for examples and I really didn't find any. I figured I was on my own but I had ideas on
what steps I might need to go through to get what I wanted for the Elky. I tossed around several ideas for materials to build it from. I thought about wood and
thought about getting one from a wrecked car in a junk yard. Wood in my mind is more like a conversion truck and I wasn't looking for that with this project. I
wanted all out custom. We decided on a fiberglass console that was paintable and I could inlay some Mahogany or Pecan, like a more expensive European car.
I was going to need a mold for fiberglass. I went to the local store and got some cardboard to make the blank
from. I had never done any fiberglass work before so this would be another new experience for me but I felt that
I could do it, it could take me one or two tries but I'd get what I wanted this way, eventually, and at about the
same cost as wood maybe a little more. I also figured that if I did this good I could try to do the same with the
storage box enclosure.
While the seats were in and the dash was in place I made some preliminary measurements. I had approximately
10.5”; between the two seats and I needed about 3 feet in length. These were just starting measurements so I
would have a starting point. I had some sketches of what I wanted the console to look like and the items I wanted
it to have. I am a pretty good mechanic but I really can't do much with my hands in the way of wood work. I
made the blank out of cardboard using the measurements I took. I used masking tape to hold it together. It took
me about an hour to do the cutting and pasting so that it came to shape. I was sort of surprised at what it looked
like, I guess I shouldn't have but like I said, this was a first for me.
from. I had never done any fiberglass work before so this would be another new experience for me but I felt that
I could do it, it could take me one or two tries but I'd get what I wanted this way, eventually, and at about the
same cost as wood maybe a little more. I also figured that if I did this good I could try to do the same with the
storage box enclosure.
While the seats were in and the dash was in place I made some preliminary measurements. I had approximately
10.5”; between the two seats and I needed about 3 feet in length. These were just starting measurements so I
would have a starting point. I had some sketches of what I wanted the console to look like and the items I wanted
it to have. I am a pretty good mechanic but I really can't do much with my hands in the way of wood work. I
made the blank out of cardboard using the measurements I took. I used masking tape to hold it together. It took
me about an hour to do the cutting and pasting so that it came to shape. I was sort of surprised at what it looked
like, I guess I shouldn't have but like I said, this was a first for me.
The next thing I had to fix my head around was, this blank had to be made so that the outside of the console was the inside of the blank and that meant that I'd have to
mirror the inside of the blank to look like what I wanted the outside of the console to look like. Any indentations or holes or things like that I'd have to build inside the
blank before I put in the gel-coat. My inlaid wood would be sat in an indentation and the cup holder, switch door, shifter those things would have to be carefully added
once the final dimension was determined. But I had that covered and pretty well thought out.
I would use plastic wrap inside the mold once I had everything in place, this way I could use the mold over again and when I remove the fiberglass console it would
have a smooth surface on the outside where I wouldn't have to sand a bunch and worry about that surface being rough. I would have to make certain that I had the
wrinkles out or they'd be transferred onto the final product. I sure didn't want that, that would mean sanding it smooth and I don't like sanding on fiberglass at all!
mirror the inside of the blank to look like what I wanted the outside of the console to look like. Any indentations or holes or things like that I'd have to build inside the
blank before I put in the gel-coat. My inlaid wood would be sat in an indentation and the cup holder, switch door, shifter those things would have to be carefully added
once the final dimension was determined. But I had that covered and pretty well thought out.
I would use plastic wrap inside the mold once I had everything in place, this way I could use the mold over again and when I remove the fiberglass console it would
have a smooth surface on the outside where I wouldn't have to sand a bunch and worry about that surface being rough. I would have to make certain that I had the
wrinkles out or they'd be transferred onto the final product. I sure didn't want that, that would mean sanding it smooth and I don't like sanding on fiberglass at all!
I designed a light in the back of the console that will give light to the storage compartment. I wanted two air vents to
redirect the heat or bottom vents to the two sides of the cabin area. I'd have a top console storage box, like a regular
console and a storage drawer or box behind the console under the light capable of holding CDs. I also want a switch or
electronic command center with most of the electronic device's switches mounted there. I want two cup holders, possibly
two gauge pods up front and an ashtray spot. So, all that I'd have to put in place inside. I'll also have to consider that the
inside of the blank/mold would need to be the finished width and height that I needed so the blank will look a little big,
outside.
redirect the heat or bottom vents to the two sides of the cabin area. I'd have a top console storage box, like a regular
console and a storage drawer or box behind the console under the light capable of holding CDs. I also want a switch or
electronic command center with most of the electronic device's switches mounted there. I want two cup holders, possibly
two gauge pods up front and an ashtray spot. So, all that I'd have to put in place inside. I'll also have to consider that the
inside of the blank/mold would need to be the finished width and height that I needed so the blank will look a little big,
outside.
I finished the inside placement of the pieces. I covered the inside and
smoothed it with aluminum tape. This gives me a surface that is smooth and
I can use as a release agent. Some people suggest Duct tape for the release
agent. Because these images are taken off a shinny surface it's hard to get
any good details off it. I've got a raised front end to meet the Dashboard
where the AC Controls & Stereo mount in it. What I am trying to achieve
here is a rigid surface that holds its form. That is it.
smoothed it with aluminum tape. This gives me a surface that is smooth and
I can use as a release agent. Some people suggest Duct tape for the release
agent. Because these images are taken off a shinny surface it's hard to get
any good details off it. I've got a raised front end to meet the Dashboard
where the AC Controls & Stereo mount in it. What I am trying to achieve
here is a rigid surface that holds its form. That is it.
I've added some on the front to cover the “box” type control head of the dash all the way under the dash. The raised piece has an indention built in for mounting a set
of gauges or small storage drawer or ash tray. The large center section is indented so that I can inlay some hardwood and an indention for the light in the back and the
Electronic Panel which is built into the slant. The back will have a storage box with an armrest / Lid which will be covered in Vinyl and dyed to match. I'll have two
cup holders just behind where the floor shifter will be mounted, just before the upward slant (the electronics control center). I chose the slanted portion to mount the
electronic switches for the various devices so that they were less likely to have spills that affect them and they'll be just under the driver's hands when driving. The
only thing I wasn't able to get on from my wish list was the rear storage / CD holder. I put in places for 4 of the same sized devices along the sides. I want some
Floor lighting, some AC vents or heater vents to heat/cool the floor when necessary.
of gauges or small storage drawer or ash tray. The large center section is indented so that I can inlay some hardwood and an indention for the light in the back and the
Electronic Panel which is built into the slant. The back will have a storage box with an armrest / Lid which will be covered in Vinyl and dyed to match. I'll have two
cup holders just behind where the floor shifter will be mounted, just before the upward slant (the electronics control center). I chose the slanted portion to mount the
electronic switches for the various devices so that they were less likely to have spills that affect them and they'll be just under the driver's hands when driving. The
only thing I wasn't able to get on from my wish list was the rear storage / CD holder. I put in places for 4 of the same sized devices along the sides. I want some
Floor lighting, some AC vents or heater vents to heat/cool the floor when necessary.
Once I was satisfied with the mold and the pieces I was ready to start. For this large project I started with a
gallon of resin. I also stated with enough fiberglass cloth for two ply. I used the fiberglass that was woven in
both directions and continuous. According to what I've read there is no structural value in the resin it’s only
the glue that holds the glass. First step was to apply the resin to the mold coating as much as possible. I had
some gaps that are suppose to be in the finished item to I started off with a coat of resin just as a filler for
these areas. Once I was satisfied that was hardened sufficiently then I started with the resin coating I let that
tack a bit then lay down the first ply of glass material. I used a scrap piece of the material I made the mold
from as a screech to spread the resin over the glass. I was amazed that once I did that the glass became
mostly clear it blended in well. I let that harden the required amount of time and applied the second ply the
same way. The console is really not that much of a structural items so a lot of strength is not necessary, just
enough to not be rickety but moderately rigid. It is necessary to keep an eye, I found out, on the item while
it's setting. I had places that seemed to blister or bubble up. I had to get the air from under them and smooth
them down. Any air bubbles will result in voids and can be a problem later.
gallon of resin. I also stated with enough fiberglass cloth for two ply. I used the fiberglass that was woven in
both directions and continuous. According to what I've read there is no structural value in the resin it’s only
the glue that holds the glass. First step was to apply the resin to the mold coating as much as possible. I had
some gaps that are suppose to be in the finished item to I started off with a coat of resin just as a filler for
these areas. Once I was satisfied that was hardened sufficiently then I started with the resin coating I let that
tack a bit then lay down the first ply of glass material. I used a scrap piece of the material I made the mold
from as a screech to spread the resin over the glass. I was amazed that once I did that the glass became
mostly clear it blended in well. I let that harden the required amount of time and applied the second ply the
same way. The console is really not that much of a structural items so a lot of strength is not necessary, just
enough to not be rickety but moderately rigid. It is necessary to keep an eye, I found out, on the item while
it's setting. I had places that seemed to blister or bubble up. I had to get the air from under them and smooth
them down. Any air bubbles will result in voids and can be a problem later.
I found that Go-Jo was perfect for removing the resin that I ended up getting on my hands. I let the finished
casting rest and cure in the sunlight for a little more than 24 hours, actually about two days was the length of time
for this piece.
I had mixed emotions about removing it from it's mold. I wanted it to turn out good really bad but had this
trepidation about it really coming out crummy. Like I have mentioned, most of the time I tried to actually make
something out of wood, it turned out pretty bad. So, I got started separating the mold from the newly formed
blank. As I removed the mold, it came off in pieces but I didn't have but a small amount of places where I had the
mold stuck to the blank. You could see every tape edge and every wrinkle in each piece of tape but it was
beautiful to me! It had turned out way, way better than I had expected it to. Once it was all uncovered it looked
like a console and I could have simply sanded and smoothed it and painted it and it would have been absolutely
fine!
casting rest and cure in the sunlight for a little more than 24 hours, actually about two days was the length of time
for this piece.
I had mixed emotions about removing it from it's mold. I wanted it to turn out good really bad but had this
trepidation about it really coming out crummy. Like I have mentioned, most of the time I tried to actually make
something out of wood, it turned out pretty bad. So, I got started separating the mold from the newly formed
blank. As I removed the mold, it came off in pieces but I didn't have but a small amount of places where I had the
mold stuck to the blank. You could see every tape edge and every wrinkle in each piece of tape but it was
beautiful to me! It had turned out way, way better than I had expected it to. Once it was all uncovered it looked
like a console and I could have simply sanded and smoothed it and painted it and it would have been absolutely
fine!
Feeling cocky now! "That's one in a row!" I set my head on the finished look. I wanted leather with Carbon Fiber and Cherry for the inlay, yeah, I got some help
with that, it's wood! I'll cover the sides in padded leather with a sewn in bead edge, use the Carbon Fiber for the uncovered edges and face or top surface. It is not
that difficult to do and I know how. On the front end of this console I'll add some air vents for the floor and in the back it will have a nice large light to light up the
Smuggler's Box. I'll make a lid from a cherry frame and pad that on top with leather for an arm rest so the leather padded top will sit inside the cherry. I am also using
a Blue colored Carbon Fiber Material. So the Console will be Silver Gray Leather and Royal Blue Carbon Fiber and Cherry trim. I'm looking forward to it being
completed! It's going to be really nice in this Truck's Interior.
with that, it's wood! I'll cover the sides in padded leather with a sewn in bead edge, use the Carbon Fiber for the uncovered edges and face or top surface. It is not
that difficult to do and I know how. On the front end of this console I'll add some air vents for the floor and in the back it will have a nice large light to light up the
Smuggler's Box. I'll make a lid from a cherry frame and pad that on top with leather for an arm rest so the leather padded top will sit inside the cherry. I am also using
a Blue colored Carbon Fiber Material. So the Console will be Silver Gray Leather and Royal Blue Carbon Fiber and Cherry trim. I'm looking forward to it being
completed! It's going to be really nice in this Truck's Interior.
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I have planned to detail out the bed of this truck and it will not be used for hauling very much. I've taken the bed down to bare metal so I have a good known surface
to start with. I'll be shooting on veriprime and sealing primer, probably with blue tint to it, as a base. Over that it will get carpet and possibly insulation. The carpet
covers the entire bed up to where the hard bed cover meets it. I'll build a small storage compartment for the spare tire and jack and cover it in matching carpet. From
the bed cover I plan on building a speaker enclosure with two subs, two mid ranges and two tweeter. This will be angled so that when the cover is fully open they are
facing level towards the tailgate and would be covered in carpet with the rest of the under side of the top. The top will have electric power rams that will open the bed
from a button inside the truck or from the remote keyless entry. When the bed is opened all the way it will disconnect the speakers in the storage compartment inside
and send the feed to the bed speakers. Rounding out the details will be some lighting. Night lighting / decorations will be added for effect nothing too gaudy looking.
At this time I have only concepts of what it is going to look like here and there but I don't know how it is all going to look finished out. There are lots of ways and
designs I can get away with at this point it is all up in the air. I know what materials I have to work with and basically, what I want the end results to be but the
details, little stuff, I don't have that ironed out just yet, its not fixed. The great thing about this whole project is being able to do what ever you want to make the El
Camino just exactly what I want and how without additional labor or extra R&R time. It is going to be a new vehicle for all practical purposes.
to start with. I'll be shooting on veriprime and sealing primer, probably with blue tint to it, as a base. Over that it will get carpet and possibly insulation. The carpet
covers the entire bed up to where the hard bed cover meets it. I'll build a small storage compartment for the spare tire and jack and cover it in matching carpet. From
the bed cover I plan on building a speaker enclosure with two subs, two mid ranges and two tweeter. This will be angled so that when the cover is fully open they are
facing level towards the tailgate and would be covered in carpet with the rest of the under side of the top. The top will have electric power rams that will open the bed
from a button inside the truck or from the remote keyless entry. When the bed is opened all the way it will disconnect the speakers in the storage compartment inside
and send the feed to the bed speakers. Rounding out the details will be some lighting. Night lighting / decorations will be added for effect nothing too gaudy looking.
At this time I have only concepts of what it is going to look like here and there but I don't know how it is all going to look finished out. There are lots of ways and
designs I can get away with at this point it is all up in the air. I know what materials I have to work with and basically, what I want the end results to be but the
details, little stuff, I don't have that ironed out just yet, its not fixed. The great thing about this whole project is being able to do what ever you want to make the El
Camino just exactly what I want and how without additional labor or extra R&R time. It is going to be a new vehicle for all practical purposes.
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