 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
The truck started out to be a really nice show truck with some decent amount of power and drive-ability. I did some amount of
research regarding the 350 and the more exotic derivative, the 383 SBC. The thing about the 383 over the smaller 350 is that it is so
good at producing that necessary "Torque!" Torque is what gets you going off the line, torque is what pulls the boat up the ramp,
torque is what horse power comes from! Heavy cars and trucks need the extra length in the stroke, that essential torque to overcome
the inertia of the vehicle and better enable us a quick launch off the line. But low end torque can be had with a good 350 and a GM
EFI Setup. The GM fuel injection system is designed to produce low end torque in large quantity. Still, it's better to have good strong
torque all the way across the performance curve but that is not completely possible so, I settled for next best thing, small block wise.
I tried my hand at building a 383 for my 76 El Camino and after settling down with the GM ZZ383 Crate Motor in it, I decided to just
start there. I added to it tremendously with the AFR 195c Street Legal Heads and Comp Cams XR282HR Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
Bump Stick and Xtreme Energy Roller Lifters. I added some Proform Full Roller Rockers (1.6:1) with Posi-Locks some Comp Cams
Push rods and a Cloyes Street True Roller Timing Chain. I rolled all that up under the Edelbrock Valve Covers and Air Gap Intake and
topped that off with the Demon Carburetion's Speed Demon carburetor W/Electric Choke. This all adds up to actual performance and
some dress up. My estimates are 500 Lb/Ft. of Torque @4300 RPM and 480 HP @ around 5700 RPM. Big Block Numbers! Now the
fun began I really wanted this to look as nice as it will run so I decided to go with a March Billet Aluminum Ultra Serpentine
Conversion. I also decided that I'd use a Flex-O-Lite Dual Electric Fans with adjustable Thermostat. With Electric fans I don't have to
worry about the "Ugly" of a mechanical Fan and Clutch added to the engine bay and another big benefit is that it saves me around 15
horse power, I can use that at the rear wheels later!
The March setup comes complete with everything you can ask for! All the brackets, all the pulleys, all the accessories in Polished
Aluminum or Chrome Plating. New Water Pump, new chrome Power Steering Pump and Reservoir, new single wire Alternator and
new polished Sandon Air Compressor and polished tensioner with a decorative polished wing up front. I've also got some Stainless
Steel Radiator Hoses and Covers
research regarding the 350 and the more exotic derivative, the 383 SBC. The thing about the 383 over the smaller 350 is that it is so
good at producing that necessary "Torque!" Torque is what gets you going off the line, torque is what pulls the boat up the ramp,
torque is what horse power comes from! Heavy cars and trucks need the extra length in the stroke, that essential torque to overcome
the inertia of the vehicle and better enable us a quick launch off the line. But low end torque can be had with a good 350 and a GM
EFI Setup. The GM fuel injection system is designed to produce low end torque in large quantity. Still, it's better to have good strong
torque all the way across the performance curve but that is not completely possible so, I settled for next best thing, small block wise.
I tried my hand at building a 383 for my 76 El Camino and after settling down with the GM ZZ383 Crate Motor in it, I decided to just
start there. I added to it tremendously with the AFR 195c Street Legal Heads and Comp Cams XR282HR Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
Bump Stick and Xtreme Energy Roller Lifters. I added some Proform Full Roller Rockers (1.6:1) with Posi-Locks some Comp Cams
Push rods and a Cloyes Street True Roller Timing Chain. I rolled all that up under the Edelbrock Valve Covers and Air Gap Intake and
topped that off with the Demon Carburetion's Speed Demon carburetor W/Electric Choke. This all adds up to actual performance and
some dress up. My estimates are 500 Lb/Ft. of Torque @4300 RPM and 480 HP @ around 5700 RPM. Big Block Numbers! Now the
fun began I really wanted this to look as nice as it will run so I decided to go with a March Billet Aluminum Ultra Serpentine
Conversion. I also decided that I'd use a Flex-O-Lite Dual Electric Fans with adjustable Thermostat. With Electric fans I don't have to
worry about the "Ugly" of a mechanical Fan and Clutch added to the engine bay and another big benefit is that it saves me around 15
horse power, I can use that at the rear wheels later!
The March setup comes complete with everything you can ask for! All the brackets, all the pulleys, all the accessories in Polished
Aluminum or Chrome Plating. New Water Pump, new chrome Power Steering Pump and Reservoir, new single wire Alternator and
new polished Sandon Air Compressor and polished tensioner with a decorative polished wing up front. I've also got some Stainless
Steel Radiator Hoses and Covers
 |
The Technical Stuff:
Block: - GM Part # 10105123 Cast iron 4 Bolt main With 1 piece Rear main Seal
Crankshaft: - GM Part # 12489436 Forged 4340 steel externally Balanced.
Connecting Rods: - GM Part # 12497624 5.7" Powdered metal.(Special "383" Version)
Pistons: - GM Part # 12499103 Hypereutectic flat top With offset pins.
Camshaft: - Comp Part # XR282HR Hydraulic Roller Camshaft.
Heads: - AFR 195cc Street Cylinder Head
Intake Manifold: - Edelbrock Performer Air-Gap Intake. Operates from idle to 5500 RPM
Carburetor: - Demon Carburetion's Speed Demon 750 cfm, Square Bore, 4-Barrel, carburetor -
Vacuum Secondary with Electric Choke
Headers: - DynoMax Cerama-Coat Headers Part # 289-86110
Additional parts for this engine:
Street Damper by Fluid Damper 7-3/16'' OD
12 3/4" Automatic Flex plate
4 Quart Oil Pan With Windage tray-(5 Quart capacity with PF35 filter)
Edelbrock Aluminum Valve covers with Billet Milled Polished Aluminum PCV and grommet provisions
for PCV and Breather
Polished Aluminum Front Timing Cover
Lokar Engine Oil Dipstick And Tube - Passenger Side Location.
Brass Freeze Plugs
Speed Demon 740 Square Bore Vacuum Secondary and Electric Choke.
Block: - GM Part # 10105123 Cast iron 4 Bolt main With 1 piece Rear main Seal
Crankshaft: - GM Part # 12489436 Forged 4340 steel externally Balanced.
Connecting Rods: - GM Part # 12497624 5.7" Powdered metal.(Special "383" Version)
Pistons: - GM Part # 12499103 Hypereutectic flat top With offset pins.
Camshaft: - Comp Part # XR282HR Hydraulic Roller Camshaft.
- Intake Lift - .510" (0.544 w/1.6:1) Intake Duration @ .050" 230
- Exhaust lift - .520'' (0.555 w/1.6:1) Exhaust Duration @ .050" 236
- Lobe Centerline 110
Lifters: - Comp Cams Xtreme Energy (OEM type) Roller Lifters
Push Rods: - Comp Cams High Energy Pushrods 5/16'' X 7.290''
Heads: - AFR 195cc Street Cylinder Head
- Heads have a 68cc combustion chamber with a 64cc exhaust port and a 3/4'' thick head deck.
- Valves are 2.020 intake and 1.600 exhaust with AFR’s hardened ductile iron interlocking valve
seats. - The ideal operating range of 2000 rpm to 6500 rpm,
- 23º valve angle, and standard valve spacing
Intake Manifold: - Edelbrock Performer Air-Gap Intake. Operates from idle to 5500 RPM
Carburetor: - Demon Carburetion's Speed Demon 750 cfm, Square Bore, 4-Barrel, carburetor -
Vacuum Secondary with Electric Choke
Headers: - DynoMax Cerama-Coat Headers Part # 289-86110
- Constructed from heavy 16-gauge tubing and ceramic coated inside and out to withstand
temperatures up to 1300°F - DynoMax® primary tubes have mandrel bends for up to 35% better flow than ordinary, serrated
bent tubes. - 3" Collector 1 5/8ths tube size
Additional parts for this engine:
Street Damper by Fluid Damper 7-3/16'' OD
12 3/4" Automatic Flex plate
4 Quart Oil Pan With Windage tray-(5 Quart capacity with PF35 filter)
Edelbrock Aluminum Valve covers with Billet Milled Polished Aluminum PCV and grommet provisions
for PCV and Breather
Polished Aluminum Front Timing Cover
Lokar Engine Oil Dipstick And Tube - Passenger Side Location.
Brass Freeze Plugs
Speed Demon 740 Square Bore Vacuum Secondary and Electric Choke.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| DynoMax Cerama-Coat Headers 3" Collector 1 5/8ths tube size |
The compression ratio should end up around low to mid 9s I figure, best guess here is around 9.7:1 Compression so pump gas is not going to be a problem with this
engine. With the Xtreme Energy Cam opening up over a half inch she'll have a rough idle to her and will be around 900 to 1100 RPM idle speed. GMPP supplied an 8"
balancer with this rotating assembly but I am replacing that with a Street Damper by Fluid Damper and its a 7-3/16'' OD Damper. GMPP's damper is a good one but
the fluid damper is better and better is, well, better! Aeroquip just came out with a line of Air Conditioning Hose & Hose End Fittings that allow me to build custom
stainless steel braided A/C hose assemblies for this little mill's appearance as well as its functionality, I need AC here in Texas in the summer time. I might mention
that, other than the intake and CAM, every part I am putting on the car will or has met CARB Smog standards and I have dual high flow catalytic converters
"Working" on the exhaust system. I'd still wager that this engine will put out less pollution than when it was new from the factory and it will get better or equal fuel
economy all while producing up to 480 horse power@5700 RPM and 500 Lb/Ft of Torque@ 4300 RPM timing set at 36 degrees, on 87 (I'm betting) pump gas, for
sure the 93 we have available in Texas. Depending on how far into the gas tank I decide to stick my foot, I'd say, just guessing now, I'll get around 17 to 20 Highway
Mpg. City driving will be a lot worse, possibly as little as 11 Mpg. But considering what the new trucks get these days and lots of "Sport Cars" in the same power
range with less weight, I'd say mine is as good or better in lots of cases or, will be.
engine. With the Xtreme Energy Cam opening up over a half inch she'll have a rough idle to her and will be around 900 to 1100 RPM idle speed. GMPP supplied an 8"
balancer with this rotating assembly but I am replacing that with a Street Damper by Fluid Damper and its a 7-3/16'' OD Damper. GMPP's damper is a good one but
the fluid damper is better and better is, well, better! Aeroquip just came out with a line of Air Conditioning Hose & Hose End Fittings that allow me to build custom
stainless steel braided A/C hose assemblies for this little mill's appearance as well as its functionality, I need AC here in Texas in the summer time. I might mention
that, other than the intake and CAM, every part I am putting on the car will or has met CARB Smog standards and I have dual high flow catalytic converters
"Working" on the exhaust system. I'd still wager that this engine will put out less pollution than when it was new from the factory and it will get better or equal fuel
economy all while producing up to 480 horse power@5700 RPM and 500 Lb/Ft of Torque@ 4300 RPM timing set at 36 degrees, on 87 (I'm betting) pump gas, for
sure the 93 we have available in Texas. Depending on how far into the gas tank I decide to stick my foot, I'd say, just guessing now, I'll get around 17 to 20 Highway
Mpg. City driving will be a lot worse, possibly as little as 11 Mpg. But considering what the new trucks get these days and lots of "Sport Cars" in the same power
range with less weight, I'd say mine is as good or better in lots of cases or, will be.
I suppose I'll dart ahead just a tad here. I had decided this truck would have 4.10:1 Rear end gears, more on that later. For the transmission
I was pretty well satisfied with the 700R4 in the 76 Elky. So, I arranged to have a transmission built for this that I could have some
assurances about its "Robustness", so to speak. With 4.10:1 gears a 3 speed or any non overdrive transmission would limit the drivable
situations I could have. Face it 4.10:1 is not a good choice for a street gear and lousy if you have it behind the THM 350 or 400 and expect
to do any highway driving at all. So, I had overdrive in mind anyway and automatics are just simpler. I needed something that would
withstand up to 450 pound feet of torque. I wanted something with a better than factory Sprag and better pump, hardened input shaft,
better planetary, bands and clutches better seals, bearings and races. I needed one built and I know just the guy! John Goebel! Because I
wanted a transmission that would put up with throwing the weight of my 76 El Camino around for my 80 Super Sport.
Goebel High Performance Racing Transmissions in Waco Texas built my transmission for me and built me a 3000 RPM Stall converter to
match that to the engine. This guy teaches hydraulics and has an immaculate shop with all the toys! He came very highly recommended
from folks in the drag racing circuits. Top all that off I got a great deal on my 700R4 from him. I installed a extra deep pan and filter
extension and to help extend its lifetime and I got a B&M Transmission Fluid Cooler with temperature controlled electric fan. (I really like
the toys now days!) I have no doubts that this little monster will produce a little heat when she is running down the street or on the way to a
show. I am parking that transmission on a G-Force dual exhaust Crossmember. I had a drive shaft built to fit the new drive line and had it
balanced. I picked an aluminum Drive Shaft up at the local salvage yard. Once it was where I could get to it I also spent some time polishing
it, well actually a lot of time. I added Lokar Dipstick and Lokar TV Cable to finish off the transmission's look. I'll paint the transmission just
like the engine, it will be an Ultra Violet Pearl Metallic which is the same color as the frame. It contrasts very nicely with the peach under
body the truck now has. The Polished Aluminum Drive Shaft looks really nice wrapped in between the purple tail shaft and the purple
differential contrasting onto the peach.
The final steps in completing the "Power Plant and Drive Train" is the Local Motion. What gets you going? Me, a 4:10:1 and a 3000 RPM
Stall converter and a stop light by a FORD or a ricer but it really isn't much fun wasting 500 Horses on a tiny little 4 banger. But really, for
me and this El Camino it's all about show and go. My 76 is a driver and will be. My 80 Super Sport will be a show stopper. Well even if it
doesn't turn out to be the best looking truck on 4 wheels, I'll like what I have gotten accomplished. I've taken every piece of the drive train
and the power plant and built or had it built to stand up to some serious horses. My known weak link that I just will not change for now is,
the rear end. The differential being only a 7.5" GM 10 bolt.
I was pretty well satisfied with the 700R4 in the 76 Elky. So, I arranged to have a transmission built for this that I could have some
assurances about its "Robustness", so to speak. With 4.10:1 gears a 3 speed or any non overdrive transmission would limit the drivable
situations I could have. Face it 4.10:1 is not a good choice for a street gear and lousy if you have it behind the THM 350 or 400 and expect
to do any highway driving at all. So, I had overdrive in mind anyway and automatics are just simpler. I needed something that would
withstand up to 450 pound feet of torque. I wanted something with a better than factory Sprag and better pump, hardened input shaft,
better planetary, bands and clutches better seals, bearings and races. I needed one built and I know just the guy! John Goebel! Because I
wanted a transmission that would put up with throwing the weight of my 76 El Camino around for my 80 Super Sport.
Goebel High Performance Racing Transmissions in Waco Texas built my transmission for me and built me a 3000 RPM Stall converter to
match that to the engine. This guy teaches hydraulics and has an immaculate shop with all the toys! He came very highly recommended
from folks in the drag racing circuits. Top all that off I got a great deal on my 700R4 from him. I installed a extra deep pan and filter
extension and to help extend its lifetime and I got a B&M Transmission Fluid Cooler with temperature controlled electric fan. (I really like
the toys now days!) I have no doubts that this little monster will produce a little heat when she is running down the street or on the way to a
show. I am parking that transmission on a G-Force dual exhaust Crossmember. I had a drive shaft built to fit the new drive line and had it
balanced. I picked an aluminum Drive Shaft up at the local salvage yard. Once it was where I could get to it I also spent some time polishing
it, well actually a lot of time. I added Lokar Dipstick and Lokar TV Cable to finish off the transmission's look. I'll paint the transmission just
like the engine, it will be an Ultra Violet Pearl Metallic which is the same color as the frame. It contrasts very nicely with the peach under
body the truck now has. The Polished Aluminum Drive Shaft looks really nice wrapped in between the purple tail shaft and the purple
differential contrasting onto the peach.
The final steps in completing the "Power Plant and Drive Train" is the Local Motion. What gets you going? Me, a 4:10:1 and a 3000 RPM
Stall converter and a stop light by a FORD or a ricer but it really isn't much fun wasting 500 Horses on a tiny little 4 banger. But really, for
me and this El Camino it's all about show and go. My 76 is a driver and will be. My 80 Super Sport will be a show stopper. Well even if it
doesn't turn out to be the best looking truck on 4 wheels, I'll like what I have gotten accomplished. I've taken every piece of the drive train
and the power plant and built or had it built to stand up to some serious horses. My known weak link that I just will not change for now is,
the rear end. The differential being only a 7.5" GM 10 bolt.
 |
 |
So, I kept the Spicer 7.5" 10 bolt (Stock) rear end in the truck. I completely rebuilt it though. I got a Richmond Master Rebuild kit
that included the bearing and all the seals and shims and marking compound. I purchased a set of 4.10:1 Richmond Gears for the
rear end and a POWERTRAX® traction system. It all fit in as planned no big hitches to mention. What I did was pretty much
replace everything in the housing except the axles. I figure that the little 7.5" Rear end would be sufficient for this generation of the
El Camino's weight and power from the factory. This truck weighs far less than the 76 I have and I've removed a bunch of weight
here and there. I'd be willing to bet with all the trash scrapped off and the Aluminum pieces I've shaved around 500 Lbs even
considering the interior upgrades. So, the little 10 bolt works fine in the Camaro and the Corvette it's probably going to be fine. I
probably will not drive it enough to really put a huge amount of stress on it all at once. If my tires were to hook every time I
stomped the gas then just maybe I'd be good to look into a different size. But all the same I'd still go with the GM/Spicer type of
Rear ends. They are a little more difficult to work on and not even close to as easy to swap gears in but they don't put up as much
resistances as the 9" rear end so, there is more power to the wheels, even though its just a small savings. Anyway if and when the
rear end goes I'll shoot for a complete new Strange 12 bolt Rear End or I could just decide that a Corporate GM 10 bolt with an
8.5" ring gear, like the 76 has in it, would be a good next. I recently found out that the GM / Spicer rear ends are also Dana the other
guy's rear end builders too. So, I should refer to them ad the Spicer / Dana rear ends.
After setting the preload and backlash I installed the POWERTRAX® TRACTION SYSTEM. Its a little like a locker and a little like a
Posatraction Unit but unlike a lot of posatraction units this can be rebuilt. I had heard good and bad stories about the performance
and durability of the PowerTrax. I figured that if it was important enough for Richmond Gear to buy them out then they had some
potential. I will find out if this suits my needs and comforts. The installation was very simple and straight forward, once I got the
right pieces. It was packaged with two of the same part number halves so, mine would not work. I called Richmond and within a
few minutes they had a new piece on its way to me. I got that in 2 or three days and finished up the installation with no other issues
to mention.
It was about that time when I really noticed just how nice the paint color was and how well it contrasted with Chrome. The Ultra
Violet Pearl Metallic against the chrome rear differential cover really highlighted how good they went with each other. I know that
chrome against most fresh paints will look nice but this is exceptional in my opinion. I couldn't wait to get the engine serpentine
system installed on it to see how it looked. I had the engine block painted Ultra Violet Pearl Metallic so it was going to be really killer
nice.
It was time to finish up the frame and chassis so that I could move on to the Body work and painting. My last effort for now would
be to install the engine and then the transmission / Crossmember along with the drive shaft, finish welding up the exhaust system.
Then put on the core support and the front impact bumper to complete as much assembly as I can now. I then need to connect the
exhaust up and finish that so that all that is left to do is lay down the body mounts and set the body back onto the frame.
that included the bearing and all the seals and shims and marking compound. I purchased a set of 4.10:1 Richmond Gears for the
rear end and a POWERTRAX® traction system. It all fit in as planned no big hitches to mention. What I did was pretty much
replace everything in the housing except the axles. I figure that the little 7.5" Rear end would be sufficient for this generation of the
El Camino's weight and power from the factory. This truck weighs far less than the 76 I have and I've removed a bunch of weight
here and there. I'd be willing to bet with all the trash scrapped off and the Aluminum pieces I've shaved around 500 Lbs even
considering the interior upgrades. So, the little 10 bolt works fine in the Camaro and the Corvette it's probably going to be fine. I
probably will not drive it enough to really put a huge amount of stress on it all at once. If my tires were to hook every time I
stomped the gas then just maybe I'd be good to look into a different size. But all the same I'd still go with the GM/Spicer type of
Rear ends. They are a little more difficult to work on and not even close to as easy to swap gears in but they don't put up as much
resistances as the 9" rear end so, there is more power to the wheels, even though its just a small savings. Anyway if and when the
rear end goes I'll shoot for a complete new Strange 12 bolt Rear End or I could just decide that a Corporate GM 10 bolt with an
8.5" ring gear, like the 76 has in it, would be a good next. I recently found out that the GM / Spicer rear ends are also Dana the other
guy's rear end builders too. So, I should refer to them ad the Spicer / Dana rear ends.
After setting the preload and backlash I installed the POWERTRAX® TRACTION SYSTEM. Its a little like a locker and a little like a
Posatraction Unit but unlike a lot of posatraction units this can be rebuilt. I had heard good and bad stories about the performance
and durability of the PowerTrax. I figured that if it was important enough for Richmond Gear to buy them out then they had some
potential. I will find out if this suits my needs and comforts. The installation was very simple and straight forward, once I got the
right pieces. It was packaged with two of the same part number halves so, mine would not work. I called Richmond and within a
few minutes they had a new piece on its way to me. I got that in 2 or three days and finished up the installation with no other issues
to mention.
It was about that time when I really noticed just how nice the paint color was and how well it contrasted with Chrome. The Ultra
Violet Pearl Metallic against the chrome rear differential cover really highlighted how good they went with each other. I know that
chrome against most fresh paints will look nice but this is exceptional in my opinion. I couldn't wait to get the engine serpentine
system installed on it to see how it looked. I had the engine block painted Ultra Violet Pearl Metallic so it was going to be really killer
nice.
It was time to finish up the frame and chassis so that I could move on to the Body work and painting. My last effort for now would
be to install the engine and then the transmission / Crossmember along with the drive shaft, finish welding up the exhaust system.
Then put on the core support and the front impact bumper to complete as much assembly as I can now. I then need to connect the
exhaust up and finish that so that all that is left to do is lay down the body mounts and set the body back onto the frame.
 |
 |
 |
The wheels and tires have a lot to do with, not only low ETs but good looks. I browsed around on the Internet for months
looking for wheels. I looked at all the manufacturer's wheels. My truck originally came with a set of 14" Ralley Wheels with
trim rings and center caps. They are stamped steel wheels and present less weight than say a set of Craiger SS wheels and
maybe even the ones I wanted. However, that was not the look I wanted. I wanted a wheel that was bigger, to better fill the
wheel well, it needed to be capable of mounting a really fat piece of rubber for good grip and I wanted it to be a good looking
addition to the truck not just functional. I decided on Billet Specialties wheels style GT93. These are two piece polished
aluminum wheels, 16" X 8" with a 4" total backspacing. After all, weight was still a consideration I want a fast truck. They
are true Directional Wheels manufactured when I ordered them.
For the Tires, I wanted something I could use on the street for daily driving, just in case, and not have to change when I get
next to a track. So, I went looking. Again the Internet was my friend, where it came to finding out who's were the best. I
took a crash course on Offsets and Back Spacing, tire deflection, Speed Ratings and clearances. I decided on BFGoodrich
g-Force T/A KD P255-50ZR16 all the way around. It give a good wide pattern and sticky rubber it has like a 30,000 Mi
Rating. They are as good as one can get for a street machine and dry traction. They are not the best all around weather tire by
any means but then; I'm not going to drive this one in all weather conditions!
| Billet Specialties GT93 16x8" 2 Piece Polished Aluminum True Directional Wheels. With 4" Backspacing. |
 |
I decided early on that I would use the American Thunder Dual Exhaust system from
FlowMaster. I had installed that system in the 76 El Camino and I liked its ease of
installation, the fact that its a true dual exhaust system and it comes with everything in
ether 2.5" or 3" aluminized mandrel bent tubes was also a point in its favor. The system
actually is manufactured for the 72 and earlier model Chevelles' but I used it in the 76, like I
said, and I've been under and around the both enough to know there is not a whole bunch
of differences in this part. I went with the 2.5" pipes and to top them off I will install a set of
Chrome Edelbrock Tuned Resonator exhaust tips. The system ends up needing about 3"
cut off from the collector end and about 2" off (Four with my tips) the tail pipes to fit this
year model Elky.
This system comes complete with all the hangers and pipe clamps and a pretty good set of
instructions for installation even using it on a truck it was not designed for originally. I had
to modify re-make a hanger or two to get a proper height for the system to rest
comfortably. The glue for their stickers is a little difficult to remove completely but in the end
paint remover will always work. All tubing is mandrel bent for superior exhaust gas flow, and
is a key to the system's performance improvements. Both mufflers and tubing are
fabricated from aluminized steel for corrosion resistance. In terms of longevity I'd say by
just looking and handling the mufflers, they will last a good long time, possibly longer than
I'll know.
I like the sound, they really don't start barking until your really getting into it and there is a
noticeable rumble as you drive down the road, from inside the cab anyway. It's not really
enough to bother me or overpower my stereo so that I can't listen comfortably. Of course in
my cars with this system, I have insulated well from road noises to start with. I can still hear
the engine well enough to determine if everything is the way it is suppose to be and if I want
to I can hear the stereo very well at a moderate level. So, I can't vouch for them being for
everyone's taste.
FlowMaster. I had installed that system in the 76 El Camino and I liked its ease of
installation, the fact that its a true dual exhaust system and it comes with everything in
ether 2.5" or 3" aluminized mandrel bent tubes was also a point in its favor. The system
actually is manufactured for the 72 and earlier model Chevelles' but I used it in the 76, like I
said, and I've been under and around the both enough to know there is not a whole bunch
of differences in this part. I went with the 2.5" pipes and to top them off I will install a set of
Chrome Edelbrock Tuned Resonator exhaust tips. The system ends up needing about 3"
cut off from the collector end and about 2" off (Four with my tips) the tail pipes to fit this
year model Elky.
This system comes complete with all the hangers and pipe clamps and a pretty good set of
instructions for installation even using it on a truck it was not designed for originally. I had
to modify re-make a hanger or two to get a proper height for the system to rest
comfortably. The glue for their stickers is a little difficult to remove completely but in the end
paint remover will always work. All tubing is mandrel bent for superior exhaust gas flow, and
is a key to the system's performance improvements. Both mufflers and tubing are
fabricated from aluminized steel for corrosion resistance. In terms of longevity I'd say by
just looking and handling the mufflers, they will last a good long time, possibly longer than
I'll know.
I like the sound, they really don't start barking until your really getting into it and there is a
noticeable rumble as you drive down the road, from inside the cab anyway. It's not really
enough to bother me or overpower my stereo so that I can't listen comfortably. Of course in
my cars with this system, I have insulated well from road noises to start with. I can still hear
the engine well enough to determine if everything is the way it is suppose to be and if I want
to I can hear the stereo very well at a moderate level. So, I can't vouch for them being for
everyone's taste.
| Top of Page |
| Last Revised: Monday June 18th, 2007 5:50 PM CST Copyright © 1998-2007, V. R. Engstrom, elcaminoplace.com is a Registered Trademark All Rights Reserved |
 |
 |
 |
